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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Manifold bolts - 1939 WC - Help

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Josh Hoffman

02-28-2005 00:05:43




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I'm wondering if there is any "trick" to loosening manifold bolts off my 1939 AC-WC? This is my main tractor (it's got my loader) & I have put off replacing manifold gaskets for 2 yrs, but, the thing is so loud now that I can't put it off anymore. I want to make it as "easy" as possible & not break anything...I know I could spray it w/ penetrating oil over the period of a few days, but, is it best to get the motor hot before trying to back the bolts out? I already bought the new gasket set.

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JMS/MN

03-02-2005 08:19:56




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 Re: Manifold bolts - 1939 WC - Help in reply to Josh Hoffman, 02-28-2005 00:05:43  
More than likely some will break off unless you use an acetylene torch. Little propane torch is a waste of time. Cast needs to be red hot. Heat the head, not the bolt. Have a candle handy and apply wax as it cools. Wax soaks into the threads and loosens them. Rethreading and using anti-sieze is important. Also the manifold needs to be true.



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Texas Denny

02-28-2005 11:52:17




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 Re: Manifold bolts - 1939 WC - Help in reply to Josh Hoffman, 02-28-2005 00:05:43  
Josh, I don't think you need to pull the studs from the block. Take the nuts off the studs and remove the manifold. I like to take a threading die and run it on the exposed threads before loosening the nuts. Be careful to get it started right and run the die as far as it will go. If you have a wire brush, clean the exposed threads that the die missed. Soak in penetrating oil before loosening the nut.

You may have a bigger project than just putting on gaskets. Sometimes the manifold actually deteriorates to the point that the gasket won't seal. You can often determine this problem by visually looking at the seal area and probing with a wire to determine if there is more than a bad gasket - missing manifold cast iron. I had to take my manifold (from my WC) and put it in a miling machine and resurface the ports until they were all at the same height and all had good metal. I did this on my WC when I got it and later on I did it for a WD as well. You should be able to get this done at any good machine shop. If you can't find anyone to do it, I can do it but you'll have to pay shipping both ways + $20 for my machine and labor. Or you could get a different manifold on Ebay - usually only cost $25 + shipping (potential for manifold having a similar problem). Or a new one goes for about $100 plus shipping. My email is open.

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Steve in N.J.

02-28-2005 05:18:04




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 Re: Manifold bolts - 1939 WC - Help in reply to Josh Hoffman, 02-28-2005 00:05:43  
Josh,
The best way I know of the remove screw-in studs from anything is running a nut up to where the thread ends closest to the surface, run another nut up behind it and tighten the two together. Use the first nut to try to gently back out the stud. If it feels like it isn't going to budge, a little heat around the stud usually will give you the advantage to back the stud out without breaking it off. Once the old stud is out, chase the threads with the correct size bottom tap, and dress the new stud with anti-sieze compound before installing. Some studs are a bugger to get out. Take yer' time.... HTH.
Steve@B&B

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