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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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WD45 brake question

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Nation Brimm

01-13-2005 09:52:11




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I just got this wd45 and the brakes don't work. Ive changed bands on a ca but I"m not sure how to get these out. I would be very thankful for some advise .




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Patrick (KY)

01-16-2005 07:22:53




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to Nation Brimm, 01-13-2005 09:52:11  
So you don't have to take the axles off? Just remove the top covers and you can remove and install the new brakes? That makes it seem a lot easier. Are the brakes on a D17 Series III similar to the WD45?



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JMS/MN

01-14-2005 11:24:49




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to Nation Brimm, 01-13-2005 09:52:11  
A simple way to loosen the pin is drill a 3/4 inch hole near the end of a flat bar, 1/4 inch thick and 8-10 inches long. Weld that bar onto the pin and use it as a handle to work the pin loose. Heat of welding also loosens the pin.



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wdtom

01-13-2005 18:11:58




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to Nation Brimm, 01-13-2005 09:52:11  
Brakes on a WD or 45 (same) can be a hassle if the pin in the bottom that holds the shoes in is rusted in. Under the axle there is a capscrew that holds a little metal piece that fits into the neck of a (about) 3/4" pin. remove the screw and metal locking piece and remove the pin. If you can't well now the fun starts. You can tap it in to break if free, but don't tap it in much or you will have even more fun. try prying, twisting with vise grips, prying and twisting at the same time. When you give up, drill and tap it for a 3/8-24 thread and pull it out with a good grade cap screw or stud, a socket or short section of tube or pipe and washers. To drill and tap, first grind off a little from the end of the pin to get through the case hardened surface. Then center punch and pilot drill then tap drill, then tap. Do not break the tap off in the pin. Use a new sharp tap and cutting fluid to avoid this. Drill and tap deep enough to get at least 1/2" of thread below the neck. The neck may break off. If you don't have to do all this to get the pins out do it after you get them out to make sure you always will be able to get them out. The castings the pins go through are almost 2 inches thick so you can go quite deep with a hole and thread before you get past where the pin is supported and noticeably weaken the pin. There is the axle housing, then the differential housing so you can drill at least 1" deep, and probably a lot more, been a while since I did it. Anyway, after you get the pins out take the covers off the top, or take them off before and put penetrating oil on the pins from the top. Don't worry about oiling the brakes, you are replacing them and you can clean off the drum later. You have to unscrew the linkage to the brake pedals, back off the adjustment screw on the back of the differential, (setscrew with locknut), and take off the adjustment nut on top. If you have a manual it will give you the adjustment procedure. If not post here or e mail me and I will look it up for you. Basically you screw in the back screw until the shoe touch the drum, back it off a touch, take up the top, then set the length of the rod to the pedal. You can probably get it working with out the exact length of the rod and exact adjustment, but when you do it right the brake pedal lock works right when you are done along with the brakes being even and working right.

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mark/mn

01-14-2005 09:32:38




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to wdtom, 01-13-2005 18:11:58  
When I aquired my 45 I took it for a test drive down the road. Flying along in 4th, full throttle I decided to see how good the brakes were ... Good gosh almighty I almost flew over the steering wheel and left some healthy skids on the road. I was used to tractors having poor brakes or none at all.



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wdtom

01-13-2005 18:13:49




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to wdtom, 01-13-2005 18:11:58  
Forgot to say, it is probably easier to work on the brake pin, if it is a problem, if you take off the wheel. But make sure the tractor will not fall on you when you start working on it.



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nation brimm

01-14-2005 08:02:23




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to wdtom, 01-13-2005 18:13:49  
Thanks for the advise. My new linings should be in next week. You guys are always great about helping out. thanks again nation brimm



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ron clayton

01-15-2005 09:36:45




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to nation brimm, 01-14-2005 08:02:23  
Hi - I agree with other comments. Getting the pins out is the biggest problem although getting the shoes out and in and repinned is an exercise in itself.

About the pins, I used vise grips and liquid wrench, "blaster" and just kept at the twisting routine. they loosened up for me but i did work aat the twisting for some time. Be liberal with the Blaster stuff and really try to avoid the drilling, etc.

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wdtom

01-15-2005 19:29:27




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 Re: WD45 brake question in reply to ron clayton, 01-15-2005 09:36:45  
I certainly agree, if they are loose enough to move at all you probably don't need to drill and tap which is a major hassle too. If you can move them PB blaster or some such will eventually get in and do it. After you can turn them a bit try prying with a big screwdriver or pry bar as you turn. And as silly as it sounds, after you have them out a bit driving them back in with penetrating oil on them will help get the oil in deeper. Just don't drive them in much until you can movethem out, don't want to lose them in there.

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