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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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12 volt alternator conversion

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Rick from PA

11-13-2004 14:30:57




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First of all thanks for any help you can give me. I am converting an AC WD from a 6V generator to a 12V alternator. I have hooked up the wiring as per the instructions, (BAT wire to the BAT terminal on the alternator & the Field wire is idle - not hooked up) however, I cannot get a reading on the ammeter. I have replaced the ammeter with a new one from a farm & lawn supply store. The box it came in indicated it would work on a Ford 8N & 9N. Can this be an issue since I own an AC? Do I need to hook up the Field wire somewhere on the alternator?

Thanks again.

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steve(ill)

11-13-2004 20:21:06




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Rick from PA, 11-13-2004 14:30:57  
you run the BAT big lug on the back of the alternator to the ampmeter, other side of ampmeter to the battery + terminal.---- next you need a "signal" wire or somethingn to turn the alternator on, unless you have a singlw wire design. There should be a two or four spade connector on the alternator. If it is a DELCO from the early 1980s then the terminals are 1 and 2 or R and F. If it is from the 1990 vintage then you will have S-I-L-R terminals. You need to put 12 volts to the L terminal to get it to charge. Disconnect the power with toggle or key when motor is off. if you know what design of alternator you have, we can help more. [email protected]

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Steve in N.J.

11-13-2004 19:59:19




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Rick from PA, 11-13-2004 14:30:57  
Rick,
We offer a nice 12V conversion kit for your WD if your interested. Drop us a line, be glad to help you out!
Steve/B&B Custom Circuits
[email protected]



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Texas Denny

11-13-2004 18:35:53




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Rick from PA, 11-13-2004 14:30:57  
The issue of being in a Ford box is not an issue. An alternator is happy if the shaft turns - doesn't care who turns it. As far as the field wire goes, that depends on the alternator. Some alternators are called "one wire alternators" and they only require a lead to be run to the battery (or to the meter). Another type has an internal regulator which requires 12 volts be supplied to the alternator when the tractor is started (as well as the lead to the battery or meter). Since your wire says it is a field wire, I suspect it requires an external regulator. One other possibility is that, if you ran the "battery" connection to the positive terminal of the battery, the alternator may be working but the meter won't be able to detect it. You need to run the output lead from the alternator to the meter and then from the meter to the battery. Your loads should all be on the side of the meter that goes to the alternator. This hook up will show the battery charge current and ignore the loads. Email me if you have more questions.

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Rick from PA

11-20-2004 14:03:16




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Texas Denny, 11-13-2004 18:35:53  
The tech at the auto parts supplier where I purchased the alternator states it has an internal regulator. The alternator has 2 additional terminals on it along with the BAT terminal. One terminal is identified with a "1" along with an "R" and the second is identified with a "2" along with an "F". The battery wire is connected to the BAT terminal on the alternator. From there is goes to the ammeter then to the starter then to the battery + terminal. Do I need to connect the Field wire from the light switch to the "F" terminal on the alternator in order to get the ammeter to register?

Thanks,
Rick

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Texas Denny

11-20-2004 14:25:47




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Rick from PA, 11-20-2004 14:03:16  
Rick, it doesn't sound like a one wire alternator - I don't think Ford has such an animal. The field on the alternator needs to be energized to work. Since you are using it on a tractor it is bit more complicated than with a car. The voltage source to the field must be switched on when the tractor runs and switched off when you turn the tractor off. If you don't unswitch it, the field will completely discharge the battery in a day or less.

I've done it two ways. One is to put a momentary push botton on the tractor. One push will start the alternator and it will continue on it's own. Sometimes, especially at low RPM's, it will de-energize (doesn't work well on John Deere because of low rpm's). The other way is to connect a diode to the ignition switch and the other end to the field. The reason you need the diode is that, without it, the voltage on the alternator will keep the ignition system hot even if the switch is turned off (and the tractor won't turn off). The diode allows current to go to the alternator from the switch but will not allow any to flow back to the switch and ignition. Radio Shack sells 5 amp 100 volt diodes for a less than $3.00. When you install the diode, if you get the polarity wrong, the alternator won't work so you may need to connect it twice (once wrong, once right).

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Rick from PA

11-21-2004 10:43:25




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Texas Denny, 11-20-2004 14:25:47  
The alternator is a GM product. The ammeter is the item that had Ford on the box. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Would the Field wire that was connected to the old generator need to be connected to the Field terminal on the alternator. It is connected to the light switch on the tractor. I am not using the lights on the tractor. Would this wire energize the Field on the alternator?



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Texas Denny

11-21-2004 13:34:42




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Rick from PA, 11-21-2004 10:43:25  
I have had quite a few of those internal regulators on GM alternators go bad. So if the above doesn't work, the regulator inside the alternator may be bad.



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Texas Denny

11-21-2004 13:31:46




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 Re: 12 volt alternator conversion in reply to Rick from PA, 11-21-2004 10:43:25  
Yes, the light switch would work if it is connected to the cold side. You could get the alternator working by just turning on the lights for a moment.



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