D14 power director not leaking- PTO lever is

So, since it"s the PTO engage lever shaft seal that"s leaking, how to fix it? I see that it does have an o-ring, but the shaft is attached to the shifter fork inside the body of the tractor with a roll pin, and there"s no room in there to drive out the roll pin. Do I have to split the tractor to get at it? Obviously I"d rather not. Anybody have any tricks for fixing this without splitting? If I decide to just close it back up and deal with it in the spring, should I be worried about using the tractor with the power director clutch oil level being about 2 inches low?

Chris

Wear eyeshield!!!

Place shift lever in off position.
Coat the string with the Permatex and wind the string around the shaft between any washers or the lever itself and the housing; letting it build up. (There may not be any washers.)
Leave some string unwound and tie off. Allow a few hours before refilling the oil.
This should hold until next spring when you have more time.
Do NOT run the oil level low. Refill to the right level on the stick.
The Permatex will get somewhat stiff, so it would best not to use the PTO if you can avoid it lest it start to leak again.
Gatz

The PTO shaft will have to be removed.
Also, the PD lever, actuator shaft and fork.

When the chain hoist and the floor jack have the load supported, remove the bolts holding the transmission to the torque tube. Be careful that it doesnt all of a sudden come apart.
We frequently had to use a heavy cold chisel and a 2# hammer to get the two seperated.
It's important to keep the gap consistant all around when moving the rear end back, because the PD clutch and bearings must stay inline. The PD clutch a'y stays with the rear end.
Once it's seperated, you can see how to get the rollpin out and replace the o'ring.
I had my D17 apart this summer to do the same thing.
The hardest part was getting the spring-loaded ball on the PTO shifter back into position.
Make sure you get a new gasket for the split, all shaft o'rings and might as well get the PTO rear seal too.
If you want to email me, I'd be glad to add a few more hints.
Gatz

Yeah, it looked to me like there was no way except to split the tractor, so yesterday I put it back together. I will try the Permatex and string route, but -- I need the PTO for the snowblower. If I'm lucky, I only have to do the driveway 10-15 times, shifting PTO once or twice per outing, only running for an hour or so each time. So I'll do the string and Permatex, fill 'er right up to the proper level, and let 'er leak if she wants to, with a top-up before each use. We're not talking a gusher here, just a slow drip that you notice more when the tractor is sitting since it accumulates then.

I'll leave splitting to the spring, but any tips? I presume I leave one half supported in place and move the other half away, but which half should I move away? And how, both halves look pretty heavy!

Chris

Scroll up to see the one with the most recent date

Gatz