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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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WD hydraulic

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brio bean

09-30-2004 08:04:32




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Thanks for the help in adjusting the linkage on my wd hydraulics so far, it's working better but not quite right yet.

First,I can't get the screw that locks out the drawbar control turned exactly into the hole on the body of the pump because the plate the screw is mounted on is bent. However, the drawbar control rod is slack. Will this make a difference?

Then should the detent postition of the lever on the quadrant be in the half-way position?

Also should the detent position of the plates on the pump match the detent position on the quadrant?

My 3 pt hitch is holding steadier with the bushhog on it but it still either slowly raises or lowers. Are there any other adjustments I should make? I really want to try all possible adjustments before taking anything apart.

Thanks

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David_T (MO)

10-01-2004 21:34:32




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 Re: WD hydraulic in reply to brio bean, 09-30-2004 08:04:32  
Even with the pump adjusted correctly, your bushhog can drift up or down as you bounce through the fields. I set up a limit chain on mine (used and old logging chain going from the top of one lift arm to anchor on the bottom of the hog"s three point on the same side, cross to the other side of the hog"s three point, anchor and then back up to the lift"s other arm) to take the weight of the hog off the lift hydraulics. Adjust the chain to your normal mowing height and then leave the lift control in the full down position when you mow. You can still use the lift to pick the hog up at need, and then drop it back down to exactly the same normal cutting position (weight on the chains).

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David_T (MO)

10-01-2004 21:12:31




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 Re: WD hydraulic in reply to brio bean, 09-30-2004 08:04:32  
Here's a short discription I keep handy for setting up the WD style hydraulic pump.

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The pump can be set for all sorts of jobs so be sure that it is set up correctly for the job you need to do. There should be a decal on the battery box just above the pump that shows you how to set the pump up. The pump has four manual adjustment knobs. The most commonly used set up for me is the hold position setting. The lowest knob on the side of the pump is the drawbar adjustment ("A"). Its use is for pulling plows and the like and gives traction control. Turn this knob all the way into the pump body depression, locking the plate into position. The second knob is on top of the pump on the side linkages ("B"). This is the hold position adjustment. Turn it so that it locks the two plates together, allowing them to move as one. The third knob is also on top but on the front of the pump ("C"). This controls the delay lift. Turn it all the way out until it hits its stop. The last knob is on the front of the pump about half way down ("D"). It controls the rate of lift. Turning it all the way out gives you fast lift. All the way in is slow lift.

Once you have the pump setup for the job you want to do, you need to adjust the linkages. (I'm going on memory here so hopefully someone will check me on this.) First with the tractor off move the lift control to the full up position. There is an adjustment just under the gas tank on the large linkage to the hydraulic pump. Loosen this and push the linkage down to take all the play out of the pump and retighten. Move the control back to the down position. Turn the second knob I mentioned above (the hold position knob "B") into the depression in the body of the pump, separating the two plates and locking the inner plate to the pump. Now loosen the smaller linkage adjust which is on the outer plate so the rod moves easily but be careful the rod doesn't slide all the way out. Now start the tractor and raise the lift to max height and shut the tractor off with the control still in max lift. Stand on the lift arms and slowly lower the lift control until the pump releases completely. (This should be about halfway down the quadrant.) Now, being careful to not move the position of the control (I recommend clamping it down to the quadrant ring), go back to the outer plate and rotate it so that you can turn control "B" back out of the pump body so that the inner and outer plates are again locked together. Being careful to again not move the control linkages, rotate the plates counter-clockwise until you feel it click into a detent and tighten the small linkage adjustment. (The detent you're feeling in the hand control is actually this detent in the linkage. If you set it correctly it should be about halfway up the quadrant.)

You may have to tweak it here and there depending on how worn your linkages are and I don't recall the adjustments for the traction boost linkages down to the drawbar (and don't use them anyway as mine doesn't have the linkages) but that should cure your creep problem. The control may still creep up from full down to the detent but the lift should stay down. (I normally keep the control at the detent anyway.)

Hope this helps.

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paly farmer

10-01-2004 08:35:53




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 Re: WD hydraulic in reply to brio bean, 09-30-2004 08:04:32  
Another thing to check is the rod from the hold valve to the control valve below. Sometimes it is adjusted to short and the positions to lower and lift are too close and it will wander between both raising and lowering. I had to lenthen it about 1/4 inch on mine and it made alot of difference. Not it holds solid.

Hope this helps



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punchie

09-30-2004 14:56:35




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 Re: WD hydraulic in reply to brio bean, 09-30-2004 08:04:32  
brio bean

Sound like you need to make sure your oil level is completely full.

I would say that you may need to get a remote hydralic control. WE run two WD's and they both have trouble holding if moving around, but if they a full it is a little better.

If you find your 3 pt is rasing on a hard pull, you may have to disconncet the linkage for the draft. This is used in plowing etc.

Punchie

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