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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Difference between a 116 B and a 125 B

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Brian Dembinski

06-30-2004 21:51:31




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I searched the board but didn't find many answers to this. What are the differences between the 116 B and the 125 B, mostly in terms of the engine? I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1938 B (my first restoration!) and most of the parts available are for the latter 125 B models. I would think the bore, sleeves, and piston are larger, but is that all? For instance, would a gasket set for the 125 still work for the 116? This is the first of probably many questions, so thanks in advance!

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Paul

07-03-2004 16:59:03




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 Re: Difference between a 116 B and a 125 B in reply to Brian Dembinski, 06-30-2004 21:51:31  
As most have said, the bore and factory compression ratio are the real differences. If you are searching for new rings for the 3 1/4" pistons, I have some NOS sets in unopened Original ALLIS CHALMERS cans, I also have some opened sets as well as some in boxes. Email me If you would be interested in a set.



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CH

07-01-2004 09:24:39




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 Re: Difference between a 116 B and a 125 B in reply to Brian Dembinski, 06-30-2004 21:51:31  
I think that's pretty much it except the CE blocks had the tapped bosses for the generator bracket. Most rebuild kits come with the larger bore sleeves and pistons that will fit the earlier 116 blocks. You gain 4 or 5 horse power. I rebuilt my '38 with such a kit. When you take it apart, make sure you keep the rod caps with the rods they came off of. The rods should be stamped with the cylinder number, if not mark them. They have to go back in the same hole.

Keep asking questions, it gives a little more confidence when your laying out that kind of cash.

Charlie

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steve

07-01-2004 16:00:19




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 Re: Re: Difference between a 116 B and a 125 B in reply to CH, 07-01-2004 09:24:39  
if you get a complete rebuild kit it automatically comes with the 3-7/16 bore, not the 3-3/8 bore. if you are trying to save your old pistons and sleeves, that is o.k., but you might have a little problem getting new rings. i bought mine from HASTINGS online.



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Brian Dembinski

07-02-2004 22:48:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Difference between a 116 B and a 125 B in reply to steve, 07-01-2004 16:00:19  
So if the 3 7/16" new sleeves and whatnot fit in the old 3 3/8" bore without machining are the sleeves thinner? I haven't pulled the head yet but am about to, and ideally yeah, nothing needs to be done, although I'm sure that won't be the case. And since the whole sleeve thing is different, if 1 needs to be replaced, I have to (or at least should) replace them all so they're all be the same, right?

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steve

07-03-2004 09:16:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Difference between a 116 B and a 1 in reply to Brian Dembinski, 07-02-2004 22:48:43  
i tore down a B motor, basically it was a basket case when i bouth it head off, stuck. i poked out the pistons and broke off the rings. wire brushed the liners and honed (remove from block) i mounted the pistons in the lathe and sanded a couple thousands off the outside - corrosion and white "stuff". measured the bores and they were tapered several thousands from bottom to top. probalby (definitly ) over the "normal" limit. i cut off the top ridge in the liner, bought new rings from Hastings and reassembled. new o-rings on the liners, and a valve job in my garage. spent $60 on gaskets and $60 on rings, pluss a few extras. For $150 i had it running and it dont smoke, i am very satisfied. I reused the original crank and rod bearings and shimmed everything back to spec. Cleaned and shimmed the oil pump. Runs great and 16 psi pressure. Yes the large liners are just thinner, if you do that. Kits cost about $500 and you get oversize liners, pistons and new rings. That would make it good as new. I am more than happy with my overhaul. Only run the tractor 2 hours per week.

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