WD45 apart - can I seal the gas tank? Can I paint

I think I've heard or read about a gas tank sealer product that you slosh around after cleaning the tank out... I know there is a lot of rust in my gas tank and I have removed it for cleaning. Has anyone used the product? Do they sell it at the NAPA or Autozone?

Also, I think there's some kind of stove paint or something that withstands high temperatures... is there a manifold paint and primer? I have the manifold off and ran a wire wheel over it a few times to see what it looked like. Didn't get it down to bare metal but close. Can I paint the manifold so it doesn't rust again? Just curious.

I'm still trying to figure out what to do about the manifold stud with the threads gone from the end. I've heard horror stories about breaking studs off in the block, pulling the threads out of the block, etc. I'll have to wait and see if I can get a nut started on the threads.

Something odd happened while I was taking a load of junk to the dump. I was getting ready to pitch a box into the dumpster when the bottom fell out. Among the junk that fell out were a bunch of bolts and washers with orange paint on them - hmmm must be from the tractor - and a little plastic bag with Agco Allis on the outside. It was a bag of manifold studs. They were kind of rusty but cleaned up good. I didn't even know I had them - they must have been in the tool box of the tractor when I got it. Wierd. But, in any case, I have a bag of brand new studs in case I need them.

Now when the parts get here I'll put it all back together and crank it over to see what happens. Wish me luck.

vic

The key to success is to do very careful prep. Use a pound of roofing nails with a gallon or two of water, and slosh around for a day or two changing the water till it is clear. Make sure you hit every internal surface of the tank. Pinholes will show up if you have them. I used electrical tape, once I was at the epoxy stage, over each pinhole, to get a consistent coating on the inside. Again, make sure all loose rust is gone, then degrease well. Too much is better than not enough. That is one of the reasons some jobs fail. Use the metal prep (phosphoric acid) to convert any remaining flash rust. Again, longer is better than too little. You can't hurry this job. After 96 hours (or more) of cure time, I used JB Weld on the outside of the tank to fill the pinhole divots. A body file smoothed it out for primer and paint.

If you take your time, and follow all the directions, you will have a job that is indestructable. Shortcut, and you are asking for a big mess later.

Been there, done that..... ..

To each his own, but I really like the job this product did on my tank and much cheaper (and fits better) than a new one.

Mark

Check the Ford or 8N board as recently there has been a lot of discussion and answers posted.

Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer works great. I did the tank on my B a couple of years ago with it. It provides a nice, heavy coating that will also seal up any pin holes.

Rod

Any questions drop me a note.

David from Iowa