Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
:

Clutch pedal on a '39B

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Chris (OR)

03-08-2004 08:10:55




Report to Moderator

Well I managed to destroy the clutch via overstroking it.... The pedal missed the stop and kept going... Ripped two of the three fingers off the pressure plate.... I can tighten the pedal up some via washers but I would like to see about cleaning up the hole on the pedal. Has anyone tried to weld one of these or am I stuck with brazing it??? Any other suggestions???

Thanks
Chris Horn
Scappoose Oregon

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
steve

03-08-2004 16:08:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clutch pedal on a '39B in reply to Chris (OR), 03-08-2004 08:10:55  
i did something like Dick, drilled out to 5/8 or so, but then i set a piece of cold roll in the hole and welded it up solid. ground down, then redrilled the hole to 3/8.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick L

03-08-2004 12:58:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clutch pedal on a '39B in reply to Chris (OR), 03-08-2004 08:10:55  
I have bored out the hole in the clutch pedal and the torque tube and pressed in bronze motor bushings with the 1/2" ID. I don't remember for sure but I think the busing OD is 5/8". Just remember do not drill a 5/8" hole for the bushing with an electric drill or the hole will be large and the bushing will slide thru and not have a press fit. I drill a 1/32" under and use a reamer. Since reamer are not cheap,(you can use this trick.) you can drill the 1/32 under, place the 5/8" bit in your drill. Clamp a pair of vice grips on the drill bit next to the chuck, and ream with the standard drill bit. The reason to chuck up the drill bit is to keep the bit from cocking and binding.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy