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The ammeter is likely only intended to give an approximate charge current anyway, so as long it is working, I would leave it. If the battery is not fully charged, or corroded connections, or if there is a battery cell shorting out the current will remain high. Normally that third brush is adjusted for maximum output, and you should have a cutout in the charging system if not an actual regulator. If either of these is present, the contacts might be fused, pitted and dirty or corroded- which while normally prevent a system from charging, they will also at times do the opposite too. If battery is fully charged, you should see a charge rate about 1 to 2 volts above the battery voltage, and with engine running the current output from the generator should be about 5 to 7 amps. If the ignition coil is the wrong operating voltage, this can throw this reading off too. Say a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system, or a 12 volt coil on a 6 volt system. Also if there is supposed to be a primary resistor in the ignition circuit and that is missing, can also register a higher current (this also burns the points too.) from your description, what you are seeing may not be much of an issue, the system is working and unless you start burning out lights, generators, or ignition points, the meter may just be poorly calibrated. If the generator does not heat up from running for a half hour, and the water level stays good on the battery, I would not change anything for now.
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