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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL

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larry

03-01-2004 17:40:41




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I HAVE 2 EXHAUST STUDS 3/8 16 BROKEN OFF IN CYLINDER HEAD I DRILLED A 1/8 PILOTE HOLE FOR THE #3 EASY OUT IAM AFRAID TO DRILL THESE ON IN WITH THE CORRECT BIT FOR THE EASY OUT IAM AFRAID THE EASY OUT WILL BREAK OFF IN THE STUD WHEN I TRY TO BACK THE STUD OUT AND THEN IWILL HAVE A HARDEN EASY OUT BROKE IN MY STUD IAM TRYING TO REMOVE HOW CAN I DO THIS PROCEDURE WITH NO MISTAKES




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Conrad McDowell

03-05-2004 21:43:51




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 Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to larry, 03-01-2004 17:40:41  
If you have a welder you can put a nut the size of the broken bolt over bolt and weld the inside of nut to broken stud, let it set for a few minutes the cast around the bolt heats up and you can turn it out with a wrench, this also works with a flat washer on small sized bolts lay washer over bolt weld it and then weld a scrap peice of metal at a 90 degree to flat washer and take bolts out with a small crescent wrench.

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Tom Lyman

03-02-2004 17:15:26




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 Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to larry, 03-01-2004 17:40:41  
Just yesterday I removed a stud that was broken off on my WD head. I tried the easyout but chickened out. I tried a reversed twist drill bit (from Harbor Freight) hoping to unscrew the stud but ended up redrilling the hole and retaping. worked fine. I couldnt get ANY of the old stud out of the threads by drilling bigger and bigger with the reversed twist drill bit.



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wdTom

03-02-2004 17:07:34




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 Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to larry, 03-01-2004 17:40:41  
If you can find a friend with a milling machine itils easy. Start with a hole like you have, follow with a endmill that is somewhat smaller than the tap drill size. Now move the head under the endmill say about .005" each way and lower the endmill each move until, when looking carefully you see the threads starting to show. When the threads show all around you can usually start the thead at the top with a pick or awl and then pull it out in one piece, looks like a stretched spring. I made stainless steel studs to put back in mine.

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Phil Auten (TX)

03-01-2004 18:54:55




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 Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to larry, 03-01-2004 17:40:41  
If you have an Acetelyene torch, you can burn the studs out. Amazingly, the stud will melt and the cast iron will not be harmed.
If you can't or don't want to do that, get some PB Blaster or Kroil penetrating fluid. PB Blaster is available at Wally World and most auto parts stores.
Apply as much heat as you can and then soak with penetrant overnight. Reheat daily and add penetrant. The heating/cooling cycles and penetrant will loosen the studs in the head. Another thing to try is a left-hand or reverse twist drill bit. You need a bit that is slightly smaller than the small diameter of the stud's threads. Use this after the heat/penetrant routine. The stud will usually back out while drilling.

Phil

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JMS/MN

03-01-2004 22:39:57




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 Re: Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to Phil Auten (TX), 03-01-2004 18:54:55  
Applying candle waax to the heated stud also helps- works its way between the cast and the threads.



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Bud in NC

03-02-2004 18:58:42




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 Re: Re: Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to JMS/MN, 03-01-2004 22:39:57  
Get it real hot and apply a liberal dose of bee's wax - smells pretty funky for a few minutes, but it works on turbine studs. I've had to hand drill small studs like that before - even if you loose some of the thread on one side, as long as you don't wallow the hole out it should be plenty strong enough to hold. The torch works great o for studs in cast iron or steel but only if it's a through hole. Putting fire in a blind hole just gets you a hole stopped up with slag that you can't burn. If you do go over size, check with MSC, McMaster-Carr, Northern Equipment or maybe your local Agco dealer and get a Heli-coil kit - or the equivilant in whatever brand they handle. I think Case and some of the other heavy equipment dealers have their own brands of threaded inserts that are supposed to be fine, too. Before reassembling it, get some anti-seize compound to avoid this next time. Keeping a can or two of Kroil oil on hand in the shop is always a good idea, too. Good luck!

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Bud in NC

03-02-2004 19:02:27




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: MANIFOLD BROKEN STUD REMOVAL in reply to Bud in NC, 03-02-2004 18:58:42  
Left out an important word! That should have said the torch works good on cast iron or CAST steel!



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