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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Loose WD front end

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John

02-11-2004 10:12:37




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I have a WD nf with a really loose front end.You cant run in fourth gear at all.And in third you cant get over half throttle without the front wheels wobbling violantly.I use the tractor to rake hay with.I remember an old AC mechanic telling me how to tighten the front end up, but just cant remember how.Has anyone ever tighten there front end?Can a front this loose be tightened?Or do I just need to replace the front end.I just want to say that I really enjoy the tractor shed web page and all the information from the foruoms.Thanks for any imput.

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JMS/MN

02-12-2004 14:52:49




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 Re: Loose WD front end in reply to John, 02-11-2004 10:12:37  
Another cause is the bearing in the bottom end of the pedestal is 'scalloped' from the constant pounding. It doesn't turn much but gets hammered all day long.



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Dave in Mo

02-12-2004 10:04:45




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 Re: Loose WD front end in reply to John, 02-11-2004 10:12:37  
It's probably the slop caused by the Mickey Mouse solid key and the keyway. Jack the front end up and disassemble the unit. Good luck.



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Chris Brown in Mo

02-12-2004 17:17:56




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 Re: Re: Loose WD front end in reply to Dave in Mo, 02-12-2004 10:04:45  
Dave, I've owned several WD's with the key on the spindle's mount worn sloppy. I had good luck with putting a shim in the tapered piece and soaking it with locktite,then tightening the heck out of it,they usually hold up ok unless theres a loader on it. 99 percent of wd's out there with narrow fronts are wobbly there.



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Butch

02-11-2004 13:28:14




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 Re: Loose WD front end in reply to John, 02-11-2004 10:12:37  
Luckily the gears are very hard and seldom wear bad enough to cause wobble like you discribe, luckily because they are not adjustable. If you want it as good as it can be made you must start at the u-joint behind the RH frame rail. Move the wheel and check for slop. Usualy there will be some in the joint ($15 at NAPA). If the joint couplings arent rusted solid to the shafts there will be slop in the pins and holes in both the shafts and the u-joint couplings that should be repaired. While the joint is out check for endplay in the input shaft. Play is taken out by removing shims under the 2 bolt bearing retainer. You can preload the bearings a bit but dont get carried away. Remove the top cover from the gearbox and check that both gears are tight on their respective shafts. Between and in front of the wheels there is a lock bolt, loosen the lock nut several turns and tighten the bolt, usualy slop like you indicate comes from that bolt being loose and, or the key or keyway being worn. Check the bolt that goes up from the bottom too. If the gear case was void of oil when you pulled the top plate dont plan on 90wt staying in it for very long unless you rebuild the pedistol bearings and seals. I use a semi fluid gease but you can approximate it by mixing a bit of 90 into gun grease. You want to end up with something that is stiff enough to stay up top for a reasonable length of time but not so stiff to work away from the gears and stay there.

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