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Bearing shims

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02-06-2004 06:28:35

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What are the .002 bearing shims made out of?

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steve

02-06-2004 19:15:06

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Re: Bearing shims in reply to CH, 02-06-2004 06:28:35

i bought stainless sheet at NAPA and made mine.

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02-06-2004 20:27:24

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Re: Re: Bearing shims in reply to steve, 02-06-2004 19:15:06

I couldn't believe AGCO wanted $4.80 per crank shim. If you needed all 24 that came with a new engin,WOW. I couldn't find any shim stock at napa. Finally found a small amount of brass shim stock at an old hardware store.The alternative was ordering a 6" X 100 " roll for $16. I could go into business selling them.

Thanks

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Butch

02-07-2004 09:49:40

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Re: Re: Re: Bearing shims in reply to CH, 02-06-2004 20:27:24

$4.80 is for a shim stack not individual shims, can't just remember how many or how thick, comes to me 5 and .002. but dont take that to the bank, it's in the service manual. Even so it still amounts to some money and I make mine if need be for the mains but I can get the rods resized to eliminate them for about $5 each. If the crank is ground correctly and the rods are original size the clearance comes out right with a full stack of shims. The shells are sized for a rod, or main with a full stack of shims and there is a crush measurement in the manuals for good reason, if you use less than the full amount of stack you must file the ends of the shells. If you dont you might lose a little clearance but mostly you just bend the cap. Shims are made of brass and if you go the homemade route make sure they so not extend btween the shells, good luck.

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02-07-2004 14:43:41

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Bearing shims in reply to Butch, 02-07-2004 09:49:40

My book says you start out with 4 on each side of the cap. Four on the front main which is the one I started gave me the .002 clearence using plastigauge but when I put the cap on after the measurement, the shaft was real tight. I loosened it up and went to the middle journal. 3 on each side gave .002-.003. When I tightened that on the shaft spun free. I tightened the front back down and it was tight again. I spun it for a while and removed the front cap. you can see where the shaft is rubbing the front and rear edge at about the center of the bearing, that's if the engine was sitting upright, it would be the bottom of the bearing. What would cause this. The shaft was ground .020 under by a reputable machine shop and I measured it, 2.230 exactly. This is the bearing with the lips that provide thrust. The rear cap and bolts are soaking now. I'll put the rear on and see how that fits and get back to you guys.

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Doc Holiday

02-14-2004 09:42:59

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bearing shims in reply to CH, 02-07-2004 14:43:41

Welcome to the wonder world of AC bearing fitting.

You can plasticguage those bearings till your blue in the face and the crank will still bind up when you tighten up all the main caps.

All the old WCs,WDs etc that come in for overhaul now get the block sent straight to the machine shop for a line bore and rods sent in to be resized.
A set of precision bearings then fit properly and no shims are needed.

The time I had to spend (& bill for) fitting those bearings is more then saved by the cost of the line bore and resizing of the rods.

If your stuck putting it together with shims you'll just have to keep moving shims around until you finally compensate for the main bearing bore missalignment.
Trouble is oil pressure suffers from the extra clearance.

Take your time and eventually you'll get it.

Good Luck!

DOC

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Smitty

02-07-2004 08:23:35

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Re: Re: Re: Bearing shims in reply to CH, 02-06-2004 20:27:24

I believe the originals were brass. That is what were in our '50 Model WD.

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