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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum

Chad - on the o rings for the sleeve. . .

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Ted

10-14-2003 10:18:35

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you sound like you did this before, if so
How long do you think it would take me. I have reasonable engine experience/tools etc.

1) do I leave the pistons in the sleeves when I pull them (if I don't do I have to replace the piston rings)?

the engine was apart about 15 yrs ago, do the sleeve typically pound out with a hammer and 2x4 or do you need to rig a puller?

2) do I have to mark anything when taking the pistons off the crank (put back exactly same)?

I would like to shoot to my dad's place for the weekend and do this if its possible about (16 hours of work time).

comments appreciated!!!

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Wally G.

10-15-2003 10:11:41

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Re: Chad - on the o rings for the sleeve. . . in reply to Ted, 10-14-2003 10:18:35

It would be a good idea to drain the oil, take the oil pan off and see if you can put a radiator pressure tester on it to see if anti-freeze leaks from the bottom of the sleeves before just assuming its the o-rings. And yes you can do the job in about 10 hours or less.

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ted

10-16-2003 09:26:55

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Re: Re: Chad - on the o rings for the sleeve. . . in reply to Wally G., 10-15-2003 10:11:41

Thanks, that's what are plans are.

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DanD.

10-14-2003 12:06:21

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Re: Chad - on the o rings for the sleeve. . . in reply to Ted, 10-14-2003 10:18:35

Also, what model of tractor is this for..I assume probably a WC, WD, WD45, B, C, or CA. Also, if you're getting coolant in the oil, remember that there are other sources besides the o-rings. Head gasket, rusted out freeze plugs, cracked head or block. Be sure to pinpoint your source.

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DanD.

10-14-2003 12:03:14

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Re: Chad - on the o rings for the sleeve. . . in reply to Ted, 10-14-2003 10:18:35

I'm not Chad, but I think I can answer your questions. 1. You'll want to take the pistons out of the sleeves. You can detach the rods from the crank and take them out the top, assuming there isn't too much of a ridge worn in the sleeves. If so, you'll need to take the ridge off the sleeves or else the rings will catch. You can probably get the sleeves out with a large hammer and a block of hardwood..or else you may need to rig a puller. It's not hard to rig a puller with a couple pieces of iron and a couple of threaded rods.
2. You'll want to put everything back the way it was. Just mark the pistons 1-4, and mark the front on each one, and mark the sleeves. Before you put the sleeves back in, make sure both the top and bottom areas on the block are especially clean. THe sleeves should be able to drop down in place with no resistance and be turned freely when no o-rings are installed. Be sure to lube everything with silicone spray before putting the sleeves in.

Check the gap on the rings if you decide to reinstall them. Service manual will have the acceptable range listed. Or else, it wouldn't hurt anything to install new rings. WOuld never be an easier time. Just be sure to hone the sleeves with a hone that you can attach to a drill. You have to have the cross hatch pattern on the sleeves to get rings to set properly.

Also, if you see hairline cracks in the block between cylinders on top, don't worry about it. Won't cause a problem at all. On bottom, would mean a junk block or expensive fix.

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Ted

10-14-2003 12:25:40

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Re: Re: Chad - on the o rings for the sleeve. . . in reply to DanD., 10-14-2003 12:03:14

Thanks Dan, could you do it in 16 hours?

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