Is motor size the only difference in these tractors. Thanks for any info.

The two major differences between the two are the motor and the transmission. The tranny in a late 53 WD is the same as the WD45- curved shift lever and the gears are angle cut instead of straight cut. Some say the WD45 is synchronized- it is not, but it does shift easier, and doesn't growl in third gear like the WD.

The 45 transmission is a constant mesh type, that is all the gears (except reverse) are in mesh at all times. You actually shigt dogs to engage different gears as youselect them. The gear is not splined or keyed to the shaft, the dog is and as you move the dog to engage the gear it transfers power to the shaft. the dogs are lghter and easier to move than gears. They also have fewer teeth that engage the side of the gear and make a different noise when you grind them into gear.

WSD45 also had the Snap-Coupler hitch system as standard equipment- WD did not, but it could be added. SC is the bell housing underneath the tractor, where the drawbar hooks in- not the lift arms and latches.

WSD45 also had the Snap-Coupler hitch system as standara equipment- WD did not, but it could be added. SC is the bell housing underneath the tractor, where the drawbar hooks in- not the lift arms and latches.

There are other minor differences but none that really matter. For instance, seat support bear is adjustable on 45 and curved- wd is straight and non adjustable, right side of engine is solid on 45- steel bolt on plate on WD and WC, oil line to governor on 45- not or others, and on and on. Reading the parts book shows many others, and running changes too not just changes at model change. Engine stroke and the power carter pistons are the big changes as you noted.

Thanks for the help guys your right it is a wd I checked the items mentioned on the engine it has a bolt on plate. Sure got fooled on it but I don"t care its still a nice old tractor.I didn't really check seril # when I bought it. The old guy I bought it from gave me the owners manual or what I thought was the manual and it is for a wd45.I checked with him and he thought it was a 45 said he had owned it for about 15 years and the guy he bought it from gave him the manual with the tractor. Thanks.

Not to worry, a great tractor too. Take care of it, change ALL the oils, keep a good boot on the sift lever, and enjoy it. And stay here to learn more about your tractor, you will, guaranteed!

Your right about the fluids the transmission oil looked rough.Not sure about the drain on the hydralic oil, and the reduction gears on the wheels.Does the reduction gears have a drain and if they do is it a allen head it does not have a square head like the pipe plug in transmission.It was kinda late when I was looking might have just over looked it. I did take plug out on the side and the oil that came out looked dirty.

The final drives, you remove the pans, clean them, reinstall them, fill to the bottom of the plug in the side of them. You can pour some oil into them, as much as you dare, and putthem on. Saves having to fill through the side plug. Check the level though if you do this to make sure you put enough in.

The transmission, there are three drains, under the differential, under the transmission in a sheetmetal plate, and the bottom of the PTO or a cover on the bottom where the PTO would go if you don't have one. To fo a good change you need to remove all three as you won't get rid of all the old oil if you don't. To fill, there are two plugh on the left side. I can't describe just where from memory, gut they look up at you if you stand by the clutch pedal and look around. Fill using both.

Hydraulics, A drain plug forward of the 3 transmission plugs, and the fill is the twist off cap with the short dipstick forward of the transmission filler plugh on the left of the clutch housing.

The engine, drain is obvious, but the fill can fool some people if they don't know, it is just behind the governor and forward of the magneto. The oil filter is obvious too but you need to know not to use the wrong one. Some new ones lower oil pressure and you don't want one of these. Get onewith cloth threads visible above a perforated screen and with a wood dowell like a pencil stuck up the center. If you use the wrong one it doesn't have enough back pressure and too much oil goes through the filter and not enough to the engine. The filter is a "bypass" type, not a "full flow" like newer engines, that's why this happens. I thought all the bad filters would be recalled and out of the systen by now, but I went into NAPA last week and they had 3. So I didn't buy one. Got to find the good ones. There is a lot in the archives here about this problem if you look.

Thanks Tom I pulled all three plugs and drained it good poured some new oil in and let it drain to flush it some, I also looked at the final drives today when I got home from work and decided that was the only way to change them. This is the only one of these tractors that I have fooled with,there are not very many of these in this area.A friend of mine just bought a model C that he is restoring, I think it is a 47 or 48.That thing had been sitting up about 20 years and he cranked it in about 2 hrs after he got it home.