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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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WD45 Brakes

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Dennis

09-20-2003 21:24:06




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Tried adjusting the brakes on my 45. Of course, I broke the top adjuster bolt. Looks like I have to pull the shoes out the top. I have been reading about the lower pin removal method and it just doesnt make sense to me. The hole is only about 2 1/2 inches across on the bottom of the housing. The pin looks to run parallel with the hole. How are guys getting in there to weld or drill and tap? I have been having enough trouble just getting all the dirt out of that area. Seems impossible to do anything from that small opening. I have an IT manual, but it doesnt go into much detail. It just says to remove the pin. I guess I'm one of those guys you just have to draw a picture for. I know this topic probably drives you guys crazy, but I have read all the old posts and it still doesnt make sense. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dennis

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Larry

09-22-2003 03:58:43




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 Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to Dennis, 09-20-2003 21:24:06  
Hi Dennis. I just did the brakes on my D17 this past weekend...so here's my 2 cents worth. From what I've gathered a WD must be the same setup. This pin, as you've been told is on the bottom, held in place by the clip, secured with a short 3/8ths bolt. It goes thru the lower housing and then thru the holes in the individual brake shoes. I started out by spraying everything good with WD40 (inside and out). What I did was to take a 1/2 nut and weld it to the outside of the pin....where you'd hit it if you were driving it in...I had a 6 inch piece of 1/2 all thread and about a 4inch piece of 1 inch pipe, a second 1/2 nut and a washer large enough to cover the end of the pipe...pipe fits over the nut I welded on and up against the housing....all thread screwed into the nut I welded on....pipe over this and then just start tightening the second nut, thereby pulling on the pin. I tried drilling---which would have been a better deal I thought, but the pin is hard as the hubs of heck, and my drill bits wouldn't do it (maybe these other guys have better bits). Anyway, here's the way mine went. I had everything ready, welded the nut on, let it cool a little, but not completely cool, and much to my suprise it began to come out just a little, maybe an 1/8th of an inch, then got really tight. I then took the puller off and sprayed everything good again and drove it back in (pounding lightly on the end of the all thread). Pulled again and it started out and then got tight and I pulled the nut I'd welded on...off...I I welded it on again. This time after I had it out about an 1/8th or so, I took a little pipe wrench and got it to begin the rotate...spraying the heck out of it with the WD40...once I got it to make a complete revolution, it came out so easy you couldn't believe it. If you go down the page to the D17 brake question, you'll see where so guy suggested welding a piece of flat iron to the pin....Looking back, I think his idea is really better than the way I did mine...if you took a piece of 1" by 3/16ths flat...grind a half hole in it fit it over the pins like the clip that holds it in place...and then weld it to the pin.
It would be much easier welding and you'd have the leverage of the flat iron to begin to roatate the pin. I think you could use a big screw driver to put some outward pull on it and I'll bet it would work pretty good.

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CWL

09-22-2003 08:18:35




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 Re: Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to Larry, 09-22-2003 03:58:43  
The pins are case hardened. Before drilling take a grinder and grind a little bit off the surface of the end of the pin. The case hardening doesn’t go very deep. After grinding it will drill easier.



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Larry

09-22-2003 17:51:05




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 Re: Re: Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to CWL, 09-22-2003 08:18:35  
Thanks. I didn't realize that, however, knowing what I know now, I think I'll stick to welding, its easier for me I guess. Appreciate the advice though, and hope it helps someone else.



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Tom

09-22-2003 03:11:09




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 Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to Dennis, 09-20-2003 21:24:06  
Dennis, the methods offered will probably get the job done. If not, cut the pin with a torch and get the brake shoes out of the way. With more heat, punches and chisels...and plenty of determination..... you can take the pin out in pieces. Purchase new ones and use plenty of grease of anti-siege when reinstalling. Good luck. Tom



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wdTom

09-23-2003 19:03:49




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 Re: Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to Tom, 09-22-2003 03:11:09  
The best thing to do with new ones is to drill and tap the ends before installing them. You will feel pretty good when you have to remove them next time. Or the guy who does will think you were pretty smart and thank you a million times.



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wdTom

09-21-2003 17:56:57




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 Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to Dennis, 09-20-2003 21:24:06  
I think Guy actually ment to say "axle housing" instead of final drive housing. But he is correct, you look to the outside of the opening in the bottom of the brake area, there should be a 3/8 bolt (9/16 flats) holding a small metal clip which fits into the neck in the end of the pin holding the bottoms of the brake shoes. You do any drilling and tapping from under the axle housing. You need a smallish drill motor to get it anywhere near straight as the drill hits the under sideof the axle housing, but it can be done, I know I hav done a few of them.

Possibily you will be lucky and it will come out with screwdrivers etc. prying, or by clamping vise grips to the end and twisting it back and forth. They can be broken loose by pounding them in, I know it seems likethe wrong thing to do, but it worked once for me, then I was able to twist it and pry and twist to remove it. Good luck with it, let us know how it goes. Use pleanty of grease or anti scieze to reassemble.

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Guy

09-21-2003 06:35:16




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 Re: WD45 Brakes in reply to Dennis, 09-20-2003 21:24:06  
Dennis, You need to drill and tap the outboard end of the pin. The pin goes throught the final drive housing and into the brake/differential housing. It is held in by a clip right below the final drive. If you need more info, let met know.



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