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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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the repair begins ac-b

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gregPA

09-15-2003 07:24:07




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good morning all, this will be my first posting here, but i'm sure not my last. i'm usually on the red board. i bought a 47 ac-b over the weekend. i didn't pay much for it and it came with harrow, cultivators, and moldboard plow. as i figured this will probably be a total rebuild. 1st question is the spindles are very loose inside the axel. is there a bushing that can be replaced in the axel housing? also the tops of the spindles are welded on both sides. do the screws with the locknuts release the spindles to drop them out? the thermostat housing froze and broke. i am going to try and braze the piece back in. there appears to be a crack on the side of the block that was repaired with jb weld many many years ago. is this a pressurised cooling system? do you think more jb weld will be sufficient or does it need welded? crack is about 5 inches long and seems to extend into the petcock drain hole. gee, if they would have just drained it..... .. it is stuck. have diesel soaking in the cylinders now and will try to break it loose over the next couple weeks. valves are not stuck. i have to pick up some manuals soon. any advice, ideas, and answers will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance, greg

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David Maddux

09-16-2003 03:31:31




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 Re: the repair begins ac-b in reply to gregPA, 09-15-2003 07:24:07  
If you are talking about the front axles, yes there are brass bushings. You should be able to release the set screws and axles slide out. You can drive the old bushings out, but best to press the new ones in. I have tried to drive the new ones in with a block of wood and had a mess on my hands.



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steve

09-15-2003 16:06:54




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 Re: the repair begins ac-b in reply to gregPA, 09-15-2003 07:24:07  
greg, you probably need to get a manual and see how the parts on the rear end are made. basically the bottom shaft of the final drive is often called the "bull shaft" it sets in two tapered bearings and is shimmed so it has no excess clearance. look under the tractor on each final drive case and you will see a half moon sheetmetal cup about 2.5 inch diameter that covers the inboard end of the shaft and bearing.
--now the outboard end has a seal to keep the 90 wt gear lube inside. what sticks out past the seal is a tapered shaft about 2 inch diameter with several big square splines. THe wheel hub (cast steel) has a tapered spline on its inside that matches up. Normally this is where the wear occures. If you have several thousands clearance, you can grind off the lip on the back of the hub and push the hub on a little further. If it wobbles 1/8 or 1/4 inch you are screwed. The wheel was run loose and the splines are gone in the hub. you probably need a new cast hub. The shaft may or may not be excessively damaged. Might need both, the shaft can be welded up and recut, difficult to do this with the internal hub spline. After pushing the hub onto the shaft, you put a large nut on end of the bull shaft and torque it to hold the unit "tight" Yours probably came loose, this is not uncommon.
--on the front end, yes the radiator is closed and has a water pump so it does buildup some pressure. grinding out and welding the cracks are best. i would get the motor completely apart, liners and pistons out first before you go into any repairs.

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gregPA

09-16-2003 03:36:01




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 Re: Re: the repair begins ac-b in reply to steve, 09-15-2003 16:06:54  
good morning steve, thanks for the info on the rear and final drives. they seem pretty good. i should have been more clear. the problem is my front axel. it is very loose where the front spindles go through. i was wondering how to remove the front spindles from the axel. my steering arms that are attached to the spindle are welded on top. if you loosen the locknut and bolt will the arm pop off the top of the spindle or is this something someone jury rigged? i will send your first reply directly to my allis folder for future reference. thanks, greg

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