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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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Hand Clutch WD?

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Ian

09-07-2003 17:47:15




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Helloe, i have since changed my all the fulids in my Allis WD and replace them wit the right amounts. when i got done the hand clutch does not work and i was useing that before to shift gears because my foot clutch did not work. does anybody know why this could be happening. I used the recomended gear oil. when i drain the oil about half as much came out as i put back in according to the book. the odd thing is i can start it in gear with the hand clutch out and it push on the gears a bit but not enought to move the tractor.
Thanks for yours help!

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Dave K

09-08-2003 10:43:37




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 Re: Hand Clutch WD? in reply to Ian , 09-07-2003 17:47:15  
The hand clutch does NOT disengage the transmission from the engine, thus you should never shift with the hand clutch. You are only looking for trouble when you do this. Hand clutch is to stop forward motion of the tractor while allowing the PTO and hydraulics to still operate.



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JMS/MN

09-07-2003 21:33:40




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 Re: Hand Clutch WD? in reply to Ian , 09-07-2003 17:47:15  
The hand clutch was never intended to be used to shift the transmission. That is what the foot clutch is for. The hand clutch is intended to provide live pto and hydraulics- nothing more! If you can shift the transmission with the hand clutch, it is only because of 50 years of wear. Put the proper oils in each compartment, according to the OPERATOR manual, and if the tractor does not work properly after that, there is some other problem.

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wdTom

09-07-2003 18:25:44




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 Re: Hand Clutch WD? in reply to Ian , 09-07-2003 17:47:15  
It is likely your clutch is just fine. You probably put 90 weight in it, which is correct and what AC called for. Mine is the same way. Now the solution. As a kid I worked on a farm where we had a 45. It had 20 weight engine oil in the transmission/clutch for the reason you have come up against and for the fact that 90 was supposed to make the clutch slip at times as it was too thick to be squeezed out from between the plates. The AC dealer said that this was a factory approved thing, putting 20 weight engine oil in the transmission. Now you might use "tractor lube". I haven't done this yet with my WD, just getting it to the point where it will run, but I notice the exact same thing you mention. May go to tractor lube myself when I finally get everything done. The thick oils make the clutch drag, which it will do when the oil is cold anyway. The 45 used to have the same symptons when the oil was cold, but after running for a while it would warm up and you could use the hand clutch OK. It does work better to use the foot clutch to get it into gear even then, but shifting from one gear to another where the gears aren't spinning can be done with the hand clutch if the oil is thin enough. Hope this helps you.

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wdTom

09-09-2003 18:15:09




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 Re: Re: Hand Clutch WD? in reply to wdTom, 09-07-2003 18:25:44  
In spite of what the others say, I stick by what I have posted. I spent 100s of hours on that 45 as did others, and we all mustly used the hand clutch. I mostly had my left leg back and my foot resting on the step behind the differential. Used the hand clutch for manure loading, turning at the ends of rows with pickup plows and harrows, used it for starting in high as it was smoother than the foot clutch. Used it mostly all the time except of course for engaging the PTO. By using it you always had hydraulic power as in loading, and live pto for hay conditioning and baleing. Used the hand clutch to do it all except engage the PTO as I said. I know where that tractor went, and to my knowledge the farmer who got it when it's farm went out of business still uses it, loves it, and says "now I know why Doc liked it so much". Doc was the farmer I worked for. This discussion reminds me I want to go and visit the farm where this tractor is and the farmer too, it is one of the last farms left in an area rapidly being destroyed by the pressures of overpopulation.

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