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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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D-17 tractor split.

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Sean W

08-27-2003 15:47:13




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I have had to split the tractor to get to the rear seal on the crankshaft, and now I have done that and have some questions that I need help with.

I need to take the oil pan off to get a 2x4 up in the crankshaft to hold it from turning to get the flywheel off. Well I got all the bolts off except for one: the one behind the power steering ram.

1. Is there an easier way to remove the ram to get to the bolt or do I have to tear the radiator, grille and shell, front steering gearbox, and rear of the fron axle off to get the ram out?

2. Right now I have the entire engine, frame and gearbox held up by a fork lift, but do I need to take a few head bolts out and have a chain on them bolts to hold the block, so I could remove the gearbox?

3. Will removing two bolts, then when I torque them back up again, will this ruin the seat of the head gasket, then I would have to get another one?

4. Also do I need to remove the cast piece that is behind the engine, and then bolts to the clutch housing? Or could I leave it on, and still remove the bearing seal retainer?

5. Whats the correct sequense of putting back the oil pan bolts so it will seal good and not warp the pan?

6. When I am putting the tractor back together, how do I align the clutch disk to shaft? Is that little cover under the belly all to get a tool in to align the disk to the shaft? (I remember when I restored the Farmall H they had a plate to get your hand in and move the plate when the 3 cap screws were holding the clutch open, then when the disk got onto the shaft, and bolted the frame back together, you take the cap screws out and put them back through the clutch and into the flywheel.) Did the D-17's have anything like this, or how does one go about doing it?

Thanks in advance!

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D17 rear main seal

08-28-2003 17:34:38




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 Re: D-17 tractor split. in reply to Sean W, 08-27-2003 15:47:13  
I wish you'd have posted on here first my friend. I just got through doing what you're doing. Here is what I did....seperate the front end from the tractor...you'll take the 2 frame rails and the radiator away from the tractor, leaving the motor attached to the rest of the tractor. When you do this...you'll have to unhook the power steering lines from the pump...I think I then took them both off at the other end to...I blocked the front of the tractor to the front end (wide front end) and then rolled it out of the way....this will let the power steering go thru the front motor mount...and will give you access to that one bolt you're talking about....its actually a 1/4 inch allen head bolt with a stip on the oil pan that it threads into. I also blocked the frame rails up to the "wishbone" on the front end to keep it all together... Once you've done this, its pretty easy to pull the engine and get to everything... The steering...I left mine on...I think that was a mistake...I'd unhook it by the clutch pedal if I do it again...its a pain getting it back together. It simply slides into a coupler on the front end...so its no big deal getting it back together, but its hard to keep everything lined up as you're going back together.. I put front and rear seals in my engine, and a new clutch plate and pan gasket and throw out bearing and pilot bearing... It probably sounds like more of a pain than it really is...I did the seals and pan gasket with my engine hanging on a cherry picker...knowing what I know now...I'd suggest borrowing an engine stand so you could do it with the engine upside down, it would be a whole lot easier I think. If you run into anything else, holler..Like I said. I just did mine this summer and its sure turned out good...I really like that tractor...

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alan haley

06-19-2006 05:49:20




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 Re: Re: D-17 tractor split. in reply to D17 rear main seal, 08-28-2003 17:34:38  
I am about to do a similar split but am after an oil leak coming out from what looks to be the front timing gear cover. Can i block up under the torque tube and pull only the front axle/motor mount and leave the engine bolted up to the transmission/torque tube? This would leave the engine unsupported and hanging out in the front. Would it place too much strain on the rear housing?



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Sean W

08-28-2003 18:52:24




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 Re: Re: D-17 tractor split. in reply to D17 rear main seal, 08-28-2003 17:34:38  
Yeah, I thought I took off the wrong way. But I corrected it and now I am putting the seals in. I put the motor/front axle back on the clutch housing, then took the front block off and the power steering lines, and axle. Then today, I got a motor sling on two head bolts, and took the motor off the clutch housing again with the forklift. And now its hanging on the forklift and I got the seals soaking in oil for the night(different seals than AC's), then tommorrow I will start putting it all back together. Good thing also that I split the engine, because there was a mouse nest and more junk in the clutch housing. It had to be sitting down at the dealership I bought it from for a long will. If they got in there, whenever I don't use it for a long period of time(I have plenty of work to keep it running), I will have to put steel wool in the timing holes. Really excited to see it running again and not dripping oil everywhere!

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DanD.

08-27-2003 16:29:39




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 Re: D-17 tractor split. in reply to Sean W, 08-27-2003 15:47:13  
See my reply on the Allis site.



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Forgot to mention...

08-27-2003 15:49:12




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 Re: D-17 tractor split. in reply to Sean W, 08-27-2003 15:47:13  
The engine in my D-17 is a 226 gas engine.



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