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Discussion Forum
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Re: Brake anchor pins

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Guy

07-15-2003 14:12:56




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The first thing I did was buy some 2" pvc pipe plugs. The kind that have a wing nut on them and when you tighten it the expand. Put those in the bottom access holes of the final drive housing to seal them up. Then I poured brake fluid into the housing until it came out of front brake control rod hole. Let it set for a day or some. I've tried all sorts of penetrates, but brake fluid seems to work the best if you can let it soak.
Then I bought some studs from the auto store, 3/8" x 3" - Fine thread on one end and coasre thread on the other. I was told to get all fine thread but couldn't get any. Then I ground off the case hardened end of the brake pin with a 4-1/2" angle grinder. It doesn't take much, only about a 1/32". Then center punched and drilled an 1/8" hole about 1-1/4" deep in the end of the brake pin. Next I enlarged the the hole with a 1/4" drill and then a 5/16" hole. Used a 3/8" -16 tape and taped the hole. screwed in the stud and used a 1" socket , a few washers and a grade 8 - 3/8" fine thread nut. I starteded tighening the nut but was thought that I was going to break something. I switched to a impact wrench and the came right out. It took about an hour to do both sides. Now if you can fid 3/8" studs with fine thread on both ends I'd would use those. Also I suggest using new taps to get cut the best threads you can.
Let me know how it works. I've tried just about everthing including cutting the pins, and these where the worst ones I've ever seen and the came out nice and easy. Besides to buy a new set of pins, you are looking at about $70.

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wdTom

07-15-2003 17:36:12




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 Re: Re: Brake anchor pins in reply to Guy, 07-15-2003 14:12:56  
That's the way to do it. Fine thread on both ends can be done with a fully threaded cap screw, or a good quality steel threaded rod, not the soft junk you commonly buy. Using one corse I would have tapped the fine thread into the pin, I think fine threads cut easier and the tap is a little stronger as the threads in it are cut less deep. Don't want to break off a tap in the pins. I will add that one should drill and tap any pins that are out of the tractor before putting them back in if it hasen't been done to remove them. You will thank yourself or someone someday will think you were pretty good for having done this.

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Nate in IL

07-15-2003 19:44:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Brake anchor pins in reply to wdTom, 07-15-2003 17:36:12  
The procedure really works good! I ended up using manifold studs from Farm and Fleet, which were coarse threads on both ends. Fine thread would have been better, but they didn't have them. I have no idea how anyone would remove the pins without this procedure.

Nate



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Brian G. NY

07-16-2003 19:53:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Brake anchor pins in reply to Nate in IL, 07-15-2003 19:44:22  
When we did my Brother's, we wound up using a 3/8" fine thread Grade 8 bolt; Gr 5 just wouldn't cut it. We also used a kingpin thrust bearing and a real thick washer to make it turn easier. It was tuff goin' even after heating the housing with a torch. Someone had already broken off the slotted end of this pin. The other one came easily, but we came to the conclusion that someone in the past had had that one out already and lubed it up before reinstalling it. Use "Neversieze" when reinstalling in case it ever hast to be removed again.

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Bill

07-20-2003 07:03:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Brake anchor pins in reply to Brian G. NY, 07-16-2003 19:53:36  
Thanks for the tips. When I get time to work on it again I'll put them to use. In the meanwhile I think I'll plug the holes and let it soak for a couple weeks.



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