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Discussion Forum

A-c B main and rod bearings

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07-09-2003 15:01:57

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when installing these bearings, how exactly do you adjust them with shim? i have recived answers from two diffrent people on how to do it, and neither way works. the crank is ground .010 both rod and mains. thanks for any help.

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07-09-2003 20:05:06

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 Re: a-c B main and rod bearings in reply to rick, 07-09-2003 15:01:57  
when the motor was new it probably had 3 pieces of .002 inch shims on each side of each bearing. this allows you to remove 1 from each side as the bearing or journal wear to maintain .002 inch clearance. If you ground the crank .010 undersize, you will need bearings that are .010 inch oversize to fit. as a guess, you will need three shims .002 on each side to "start". use plastigage on the bearing and isntall the cap. torque, remove, and look at the plastigage to see it has "crushed" to .002 . if not remove a shim on each side and test again. when you are done, clean and torque the cap. rotate the crank to see that it turns freely. if it gets tight, you need to add a shim and retest. i have done the shimming by trial and error and not used the plastigage on occasion. remove a shim at a time and torque and rotate, remove another and retest, when you get some drag, add the last shim you removed. do one bearing at a time, not 2 or 3 at a time. get 1 done, then do the next. keep a little oil on the bearings as you roll crank.

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07-09-2003 18:30:05

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 Re: a-c B main and rod bearings in reply to rick, 07-09-2003 15:01:57  
You need "crush" of the bearing shells. Don't remember how much, only a few thousands,but with the bearing in the rod,or main, finger tight on the nuts or capscrews only, you need the correct space between the cap and the rod or block. Shim to get this space. If with the proper crush plasti gage says you have too much bearing clearance you need to file, carefully and evenly, the bearing shell to reduce clearance, then remove shims to maintain your crush. Get a AC manual or a reprint and it will tell you about this. Maybe someone else can tell you the "crush" for a B. I only have manuals for my WD. The manual will also tell you the bearing clearance too, probably .001 to .003 inch. (one to three thousnads) It can take quite a while to go through all the bearings starting with the crank, one at a time, until you get to the last rod. Place the upper bearing shells in the block, install the crank, and then begin fitting the caps one at a time. I used a dial indicator on a magnetic base on a flat steel surface to run my bearing shells under to measure how much I filed off and to get them even side to side. Place the two ends of the shell on the surface and run the round "top" under the indicator, file a few strokes, check, file, check, etc. Do not rush. Make sure crank turns after each final fitting and torqueing. Then go on to the next. Use a lot of oil or oil and STP mix to pre lube the bearings when you put them together the final time. Put a film of oil on the bearing before putting it on the crank. Do not put any oil between the bearing and the block or rod, install the bearings in the block or rod dry and CLEAN.

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