When I jack up the tractor by the frame the narrow front end will drop @3/8", also the steering wheel has play. I put in new u-joint and a bushing in steering column at controls and beside frame/engine. I removed the cover on top of pedestal and the mesh of the gears is loose.I can move the wheels left/right without the worm gear moving. I removed the bolt on the bottom between the wheels and it has 3 shims. Are these shims for preload on the bearing?? I took them out and it allows the gear to hit the hand crank when I lower the tractor back onto the ground. I am confused to the operation of bearing preload and gear mesh adjustment. Also what is the square head bolt and lock nut on front of pedestal between the tires used for?? Sorry for so many questions, any help would be appreciated. Thanks Kent

We restored a WC tractor that's been a family tractor, since new, this spring. Concerning the vertical play, I found that the top of the casting the spindles fit in was worn down probably 5/16" to 3/8". There is a Timken bearing up in the pedestal with some shims under it. The bearing was shot also. There is no adjustment on the worm gear mesh. You have to replace the gears. I got lucky at a sale last year and found a complete front end with like new gears. Paid $80 for it. There were only 2 of us bidding that realized it was like new. I think it was taken off the original tractor when it was new, and probably replaced with a wide front. Auctioneer made some comment about how they had been selling narrow front WC parts tractors all day long for $15-$20! That was ok! He didn't realize he had just sold me a brand new 60 year old front end! I put it on my tractor. I never knew a WC could steer so good!

Thanks for the help, I guess I will have to take the whole thing apart and give it a "update". Thanks Kent

Kent; The square headed bolt you mentioned is actually a set screw that presses on a key between the bolster & spindle block. Quite often the key &keyways will become worn & it is necessary to file or machine the keyways & install a larger key. I have used both ways, but a good machine shop can give you a much better fit. Good luck, John in MO.

John, Is there a way to get the up and down movement out of the "pedestal"? As I jack up the tractor the front wheels will sit on floor for @3/8" longer than the tractor as I jack it up. What takes this play out?? I have never had one of these apart and the parts/manual I have dont show it. Thanks Kent

Kent, I would remove the spindle block from the pedestal by removing the bolt & shims &the setscrew, if it is loose on the pedestal it should drop right off. At any rate you need to remove it and replace the Timken bearing and race as they tend to wear grooves where the rollers set as most of the travel is straight ahead. If the bearing has locked up it may have worn a groove in the top of the spindle block.You can either file that off & use a washer there or the new bearing may take up the space. Then with shims or washers adjust things to remove any vertical play,Finally when you tighten the setscrew give it a few swats with a hammer as you are tightening it. John.

John, That is the info I was looking for. Looks like the Ole' Girl needs a new bearing and gears. Thanks, I appreciate the help. Kent

don't know about the bearing preload. The square bolt and lock nut will tighten up the front end some when screwed in. The mesh of the gears I fixed on mine by adjusting the shims where the steering shaft enters the gear box, coming forward from the u joint. These shims adjust the bearing clearence and will tighten it up. Also the two pins that hold the u-joint may have out of round holes in the steering shaft allowing some wobble. Did not have to work on my pedistal so not familiar with that part.

Dave