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Rust Converter ??????

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Rich,NJ

06-07-2003 09:48:55




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While getting the afore mentioned paint for the 38 B, I made some inquiries (picked some brains) about a really tough primer for my rims. I was even contemplating using some old whiteline paint that I had aquired somewhere. A couple of people who actually knew something, talked me out of the whiteline paint. It's for asphalt and concrete , not metal. The guy at the store talked me into using this stuff called "Rust Converter". It's new to me and I know nothing about it. I put it on one of the 8N rims as a primer and protective coating.
will that work? Should I paint over it? Has anyone else used it and with what results? He said it's good for iron railings too. Was he "overselling" it, Or is the stuff worthwhile? Next because of the low tire pressures in tractor tires, we don't get a really good seal at the bead and rim. This allows water to get in and begin the rusting. How's about if I ran a bead of silicon sealant around the bead before I put the air in the tires to keep the water out of there?
The air pressure would squeese it out and fill in any small open crevices between the tire and the rim. Would it make the tire impossible to get off the rim ? Would it deteriorate the tube or tire if it came into contact with it?

Thanks, Rich

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Ted Hawk

06-11-2003 15:25:46




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 Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Rich,NJ, 06-07-2003 09:48:55  
I have used rust converters over the past ten years on everyone of a number of restorations on cars,tractors and crawlers. The converters do a great job to convert the rust which is down in the pours of the metal. Even after you sandblast to bare metal this rust is still there. All converters must be top coated. The best rust stopper and longest lasting paint job I have done is on a Oliver 1850. I painted it with por 15 then used a adhesion coat from the same company. I then top coated with a Dupont Imron . That was in 1984 and that tractor has been used on the farm since then. It sits out a lot during the summer but is inside during the winter. Paint is a little faded now after almost 20 years but no rust other than were it has been scrached or scraped. I do use POR 15 a lot but the Imron is a bit pricey .

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DPOST

06-09-2003 05:47:40




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 Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Rich,NJ, 06-07-2003 09:48:55  
Rich;

Go tho the YT's John Deere discussion board ( above ) and search the topic. The JD boards has discussed the topic in detail.

D.D.Post



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RB/CT

06-08-2003 13:05:11




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 Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Rich,NJ, 06-07-2003 09:48:55  
Painted a couple of rusted iron wheelbarow wheels with por 15 and no topcoat, four or five years ago, and put them on a stone wall. Still no rust, the color just faded due to uv rays, instead of shiny black they are dull and rustless. also used it in the truck bed, no rust, no topcoat, just dulled with the uv rays.



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bill

06-08-2003 04:48:51




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 Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Rich,NJ, 06-07-2003 09:48:55  
all rust converters that I know of need to be painted over. On auto bodys, they are somewhat effective when sprayed in sealed body structures as a rust inhibitor. A moisture cure paint such as that sold by eastbrook or POR-15 will effectively seal out moisture and future rust. But The moisture sensitive paints do not have UV filters or inhibitors so need to be covered with conventional paints. Fighting rust is not easy! That metal wantsto get back to its natural state.

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Jack

06-07-2003 21:17:57




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 Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Rich,NJ, 06-07-2003 09:48:55  
As long as your tires are kept aired up you should not have to worry about sealing your rims-they will seal fine at recomended pressure. If they (rims-at the bead line is already rusty) then you might want to wire brush good and then use a good rubber lube to allow the bead to seat good when reinflated. Usually any internal rust is from past or present use of Calcium Chloride in the tires.



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Kevin C

06-07-2003 11:09:39




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 Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Rich,NJ, 06-07-2003 09:48:55  
Rich,
My experience with products like Duro's "Extend" has been good. As far as rust converters go, I've heard they work, but I have no first hand experience with them. Silicone is not a good idea on iron surfaces. You would be better off with a nonconductive urethane sealant, such as the 3 M products used in windshield sealants. It must be nonconductve so that rust will not occur.
Hope this helps,
Kevin C

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CHALMERSBOB

06-07-2003 19:17:08




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 Re: Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to Kevin C , 06-07-2003 11:09:39  
2YEARS AGO I BOUGHT AN OLD HORSE DRAWN CULTIVATOR THAT WAS ALL RUSTY AND PAINTED IT WITH RUST CONVERTER. IT HAS BEEN OUTSIDE SINCE AND IS NOW STARTING TO SHOW RUST COMING THROUGH. LAST YEAR I MENTIONED TO A NEIGHBOR, A MECHANIC, THAT I USED THE RUST CONVERTER. HIS COMMENT WAS IT'S JUNK. ANOTHER NEIGHBOR WAS THERE ALSO, HE HAS A BODY SHOP, AND SAID THEY USE IT ALL THE TIME ON SPOTS THEY CANT GET AT TO CLEAN.
HAVE FUN WITH YOUR TRACTORS.
BOB

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jocco

06-08-2003 03:11:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to CHALMERSBOB, 06-07-2003 19:17:08  
tend to agree its temporary and just seems to do an artificial coating wasnt inmpressed



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CHALMERSBOB

06-08-2003 10:26:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Rust Converter ?????? in reply to jocco, 06-08-2003 03:11:11  
IT WASN'T FORMULATED TO BE A TOP COAT, JUST A PRIMER. I WAS IMPRESSED AT HOW WELL IT HELD UP WITHOUT BEING PAINTED OVER.
BOB



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