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D-14 Two-Way Hydralics

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04-15-2003 09:37:36

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Has anyone tried the remote valve on the D-14 parts page of YT (see link below). I'm interested in getting a loader with downforce (using a trip bucket now) and running a log splitter with my D14. I've also seen pumps out the front, but that seems 'messy' (I don't want to cut a hole in the grill - do I?). I've also heard of pumps that attach at the belt pulley location. That sounds fine, but they must be rare because I've never seen one. Anyway, this valve may be all I need, but I'm not sure - the description here is a little vague. If someone has tried the valve, please let me know.

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04-15-2003 11:44:11

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 Re: D-14 Two-Way Hydralics in reply to Bruce, 04-15-2003 09:37:36  
The front pump would mount with the shaft running through the hole where the hand crank goes- not through the grille. The side mount pump is on something like the Series Four D17, and gives independent hydraulic power (constant running). On any earlier series, the pulley is not independent, nor would you get independent power from that connection. It would stop with pushing the foot clutch in. Using the internal D14 pump to power the loader like you want might be a bit slow, an extra pump would give you more capacity for running the cylinders faster, especially if you want two-way on the boom (lift) as well as the bucket.

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04-15-2003 12:40:47

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 Re: Re: D-14 Two-Way Hydralics in reply to JMS/MN, 04-15-2003 11:44:11  
Thanks for the thoughts. The frame for my current loader sits in front of the hand crank hole - I didn't even know it was there, nor do I have the crank. Sometimes I take off the loader, but I've never had the frame off. Tell all these guys with the starter problems to do it the old fashioned way (no starter - no problem).

What you said about the D17 makes sense, but I already loose hyd. power when I push in the clutch - so that part wouldn't be a change. At least then it would be 2-way and may not require modification to the loader frame (Although I may just get a different loader if I do the upgrade).

I don't think speed is too big of a problem. If I wanted to go fast I'd get a Bobcat. I would like a little two-way action to drive in some steel posts with the loader and turn a chute on a snow-blower - stuff like that. Do you or anyone know any details of how the valve that YT sells works? Will it do the job - even if it is slow?

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04-15-2003 16:13:31

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 Re: Re: Re: D-14 Two-Way Hydralics in reply to Bruce, 04-15-2003 12:40:47  
If you are happy with the speed and capacity of your present loader, then yes the two way valve would work. You can also get a valve from farm store, etc. Basically you engage your present lever and let the present hose have pressure all the time. this hose is routed to a new "two way valve". The hose goes to the pump in port of the vavle. you run a sump hose back to your resivour or fill cap. The valve has two other ports, "up" and "down" .In the neutral position the oil goes striaght thru the new valve and back to the tank. when you pull the lever the spool directs the own hose to the sump and pressure oil to the raise hose.when you push the lever it directs the raise hose to sump and pressure oil to the lower hose. works just like a bobcat, with yuour present "pressure hose" being the pump line. Remember you need two valves if you have raise-lower, and bucket dump-retract. Look at valves in NOrthern Hydraulics also. You need a "two way, center sump" type. If you want a detent or "hold position" on the bucket, that is also available.

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04-15-2003 19:45:39

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: D-14 Two-Way Hydralics in reply to steve, 04-15-2003 16:13:31  
Thanks for the explaination. That makes sense. I'll look at the valves at Northern - they have a store near me. Currently, I have a pair of valves that let me turn the remote and the lift on/off independently. I imagine I'll just plumb in a third valve to the new two-way set-up so that I can continue to use my old cylinders.

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Farmer Brown

04-24-2003 09:59:49

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D-14 Two-Way Hydralics in reply to Bruce, 04-15-2003 19:45:39  
Be careful if you DIY. You still want to able to use your hitch. The two way "center sump" valve would be open center, meaning oil is free to flow back to sump anytime a valve is not actuated. If they were all you add, there would not be a way to force oil to the hitch lift with the new valves in neutral. You will either need to keep the selector valve you have, or go with a system that includes a solution like a priority valve.

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