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Charging question

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Pete S

12-27-2002 17:09:49

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I posted a while ago about my alt being questionable. Well I took it to the Auto Zone and tested it. It's an AC Delco std type. I took just the Batt post and ground and it showed 14 volts. So I figured it was good. My reading at home are as follows, w/ a digital volt meter:
Idle: 12.48 volts +/-
Full throttle: 12.48 volts +/-
Full throttle w/ 3 lights and a marker light: 11.38 volts +/-
This is on a WD 45 that has this alternator hooked up. The last time I ran it with the lights on it sucked the battery dead. I recharged the battery and it seemed to hold the charge. I have run a new lead to the Battery from the Batt. terminal. Cleaned all contacts bright and used di-electric grease to avoid corrosion.
What is going on here. Is this normal and I have another problem? NOTE this "style" has the two resessed prongs on the "top" of the alt. They currently have a rubber plug on top of them and are not used. I bought this thing this way and it "appears" to have been this way for a long time. Steve Barbato I may end up calling you anyway! Seems I'm always busy during the day.
Thanks! Pete S

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Justin Ny

12-28-2002 17:44:01

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 Re: Charging question in reply to Pete S, 12-27-2002 17:09:49  
Pete, Steve hit it right on the head,I have the same set-up on my B,What I do (not saying it's right is give the govonor rod a yank to activate the Alt and then it continues to charge I haven't had any trouble with the set-up!After mine activates it will charge all day! Justin Ny

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Steve in N.J.

12-27-2002 21:00:32

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 Re: Charging question in reply to Pete S, 12-27-2002 17:09:49  
Sounds like you have yourself a one wire alternator there. If it has a rubber plug in the top of it where the two wires would go to trip the regulator. The problem you are experiencing with your alternator, if it is a one wire, is it needs to spin up to 1500-1800 rpm in order for it to "excite" the regulator to make it charge. One wire's work great for cars, trucks, and street machines, but not tractors. Because tractors operate at low rpms, it doesn't spin the alternator fast enough to excite it to charge. Some folks put smaller pulleys on to make em' spin faster, but if you are still using the "fat" belt, it's tough to find a small wide pulley that will work. You're better off putting the same type alternator on, but a "2 wire" which utilizes the "sense" circuit to signal the alternator to charge as soon as the engine fires and runs. I can fix ya up with another alt. Drop me a line and I can get ya goin' again. I'll be away most of the day tomorrow (Saturday) (going to p/u a WD with a friend) but when I get back I'll e-mail ya.
Talk to ya later! Steve B.

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Doug in OR

12-29-2002 11:19:01

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 Re: Re: Charging question in reply to Steve in N.J., 12-27-2002 21:00:32  
Even with a one-wire system, it should work. The only difference being that it won't charge until you spin the engine up to a higher RPM. What does concern me is that 11.xx reading you get with the lights on. With a fully charged battery, turning the lights on should have little effect on the voltage - it should stay around the 12.2 to 12.4 range. I would recommend that you check the pulley size on your alternator first. Ideally you want the alternator to be turning at 1200 RPM at idle. Considering that most tractors idle at 450 to 475 RPM, you want a ratio of about 2.5:1 or faster. This can be hard to get, but try to find a pulley that is at least one half the size of your drive pulley. Go smaller if you can. I would double-check everything, especially that battery. I smell a rat with that battery voltage when the lights are on - unless the battery is not charged up.

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