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Re: brake pins

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Max Hills

12-19-2002 18:30:26

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I started out spraying Free All and PB Blaster anywhere around the pin. Do this especially where the pins go through the shoes. Then I used my good, 10inch Vice Grips, clamped the bejabbers out of the pinhead and kept

nudging the pin back and forth until I could rotate the pin. Then I used screwdrivers,chisles and adjectives. this got the first one out. The second one told me to take a hike. I got the smallest bearing splitter that W.W.Grainger sells and clamped in the groove of the pin after I got it to start rotating. I would screw the forcing bolts against the casting until it wouldn't move anymore, then drive in the chisles, between the splitter and the casting . squirt in the penetant, diassemble the splitter, drive the pin back in,and do it all over again. This was on my 1956 W.D.45. One of my buddies with 40's W.D. had his come apart with no problem. If you cut the pin off inside the casting,you will have split the axle housing from the differential, I,m sure. It takes patience and a lot longer to do than it took to tell you this!My 12th grade english teacher would have fainted if I had ever turned something this long. I just remembered, it also helps to pry up inside the hole at the bottom of the casting to shove the brake shoes on the pins. One A.C. guy told me that if mice made a nest in there, and you get it apart without torching and a teardown, you have been favoured by powers that be.

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Steve (WI)

12-19-2002 20:13:38

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 Re: Re: brake pins in reply to Max Hills, 12-19-2002 18:30:26  

Not wanting to start something here but you do not have to split the axle housing if you cut the pins. I have done this MANY times on many WD's. The pins simply fall out of the bottom of the hole once free. Cutting the pin is by far the most efficent way I have found if they are "hopelessly" stuck...and you will run into some that are... especially if the brakes hav'nt been changed in 50 years and the tractor left outside. You can order new pins thru any AGCO dealer and shoes can be easily found if you mess them up. If you use a torch be sure to clean out the mouse nest (which is inevitable) as best you can...save on the smoke a little.

If your brake job is'nt urgent get some PB Blaster and start soaking and tapping the the pins at least once a week. Be sure to squirt it in thru the bottom hole to help loosen from the inside.

Max- I was philosophically opposed to cutting the pins until I tried it after exhausting all other methods... including the one you described. It works like a charm...believe me. Try it if you ever run into a badly stuck pin again and save yourself A LOT of time. I now do a brake job on a WD in a few hours rather than a few days.



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David Maddux

12-20-2002 05:12:34

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 Re: Re: Re: brake pins in reply to Steve (WI), 12-19-2002 20:13:38  
When talking about welding a nut on the end of the rod, what we usually do is weld a washer on the rod instead of the nut. It seems like you get a little better surface weld with a washer, then if you need to weld a nut over that. A lot of times you can turn the washer with a pair of vice-grips. But I know what you are going through you try everything in the book. Some times I feel like heating the whole tractor up in a bon fire . Dave

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12-20-2002 16:51:24

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: brake pins in reply to David Maddux, 12-20-2002 05:12:34  
Go back in the archives and look for posts on this. The way I have done it and described it here is to drill and tap for a 3/8-16 thread. But you have to do it carefully and right. If you can't find posts about doing this ask here or e mail me. Basically you use a pipe or socket and a bolt and washers as a puller. But if they are really stuck there is more to it than this. And this is faster than pulling the final drive and axle housing off, and you can reuse the pins.

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