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Tight B Sleeves

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Andy

11-23-2002 18:59:05




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I bought an engine kit and was fitting the sleeves without o-rings today just to see how snug they might be. Well, they get REAL tight and the sleeve is still about an inch above the top of the block. I have already honed out the surface where the old o-rings had been and it's as clean as it can be. The instructions say they should fit and turn by hand without the o-rings on them. I'm kinda afraid to drive them in since they might damage the block webbing or the sleeve itself. Also, with them being that tight I won't know if I cut an o-ring when I do put them in. By the way, this is a late B with the CE enging. Thanks for any advice, Andy

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Michael Draper

11-29-2002 17:32:13




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 Re: Tight B Sleeves in reply to Andy, 11-23-2002 18:59:05  
AS an alternative to all that grinding. You can let the sleeves set in a freezer overnight. The sleeve gets cold and shrinks just enough to fit - You can't spend a lot of time fooling around though as the sleeves return to normal size as they warm back up. The permatex sealer is a great idea. It also works well on a milled head and block with a thin(24 guage or less)metal gasket as a slight compression booster. But this can be risky, and MURPHY usually wins in the end -usually only pullers go to that much trouble for such slight gains.

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Ron

11-26-2002 18:55:05




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 Re: Tight B Sleeves in reply to Andy, 11-23-2002 18:59:05  
After the sleeves are in ( or, use this on the "O" rings, too) pour a coating of Permatex aviation sealer into the bottom of the block, to make sure the "O" rings Never leak..!!! About a pint should do it... Works wonders on clean WD-45 blocks, too...!! The front side of the front sleeve always runs colder than the rest of the sleeves, too-that is why the front cylinder of an in-line engine always wears toward the FRONT... I would coat part of the front side of the front sleeve ( about 1/4 of it ) to even out the heat...

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Andy

11-26-2002 04:50:42




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 Re: Tight B Sleeves in reply to Andy, 11-23-2002 18:59:05  
Thanks guys,
I bought one of those flapper wheel disks with
the 40gt sand paper on it and tried it on one of the holes and within a couple of tries the sleeve fit right in. Thanks, Andy



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Dick L

11-24-2002 10:48:55




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 Re: Tight B Sleeves in reply to Andy, 11-23-2002 18:59:05  
I use a 2" dia X 1" 40 grit flapper wheel in a die grinder to remove the build up of rust and crud that is in all old engines with wet sleeves. I then spot the sleeve in with blueing or a ink marker untill the sleeves turn by hand. Some times it takes a lot of grinding to get new sleeves to turn when they are down where they belong. Spoting them in, keep you from grinding more material out in one area than needed.
Driving the sleeve home is only a good idea if you would like to take a chanch of doing it over when the oring gets sheared entering the sealing area.

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Steve in N.J.

11-24-2002 05:21:14




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 Re: Tight B Sleeves in reply to Andy, 11-23-2002 18:59:05  
Andy,
When I did my B engine (CE) I was able to turn mine like the instructions said. I wouldn't chance trying to pound them in with the o-rings on the sleeves, you'll probably take the o-rings right out before they even get down to where they're supposed to fit! I would bring them back to where you bought them from and get another set. They could possibly be boxed wrong also. Just my opinion.... Steve B.

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