JUST GOT 1ST WD, HAS LARGE SPRING LOOKING PART UNDER HYDRAULICS, BY THE PTO SHAFT THAT DRAWBAR ATTACHES TO. DOES THIS MOVE IN AND OUT AND WHAT IS THE LEVER THAT IS ATTACHED TO THE HYDRAULIC PUMP DO? CAN SOMEONE TELL ME THE PROPER WAY TO ATTACH A REAR BLADE (SNAP COUPLER ARMS FIRST OR DRAWBAR YOKE FIRST?).I WAS TOLD YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO ATTACH STUFF WITHOUT GETTING OFF TRACTOR AND I DO NOT SEE HOW. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. FIRST ALLIS AND CONFUSED!

Don't think you will get much traction boost on the blade. Requires a pretty hard pulling load on the drawbar which then shifts some weight to the tractor. If it works at all it will probably just raise your blade some since you are not actually dug into the ground like a plow is.

Dave

Sounds like you may have the original WD drawbar and spring, not a snap coupler. Should be a big pintle hook looking coupler that the drawbar snaps into. When you pull the release handle the jaw will open and you can drive off (assuming you unhooked the arms! or, in the case of the drawbar, the brackets that adjust the height.) You can also have some one stand there and, when you open the hook they can manually pull the drawbar free. I pull the height setting pins, let the dawbar down on the ground then open the jaw and drive away from it. If you are then attaching a snap coupler implement you need simply to back into its drawbar, insure the drawbar of the implement is aligned to slide into the bell shaped housing where the coupler is.When you hear it snap, hook up the lift arms, raise the implement and go.

Dave

The linkage going from the spring to the hydraulics is part of the traction booster system. When adjusted properly it activates the pump to supply oil to the lift arms which transfer some of the weight of the implement (normally a plow) to the tractor giving added traction to the wheels. An example would be when you are plowing and you hit a tough spot. The spring is compressed, the plow is raised slightly giving more traction and requiring less pull. You get thru the tough stuff, the spring extends and the plow settles back down to its normal depth. This is all done automatically.

SOUNDS LIKE I HAVE THE ORIGINAL SPRING AND DRAWBAR (NO BELL HOUSING) SO I ASSUME I JUST REMOVE STANDARD DRAWBAR AND ATTACH DRAWBAR OF "BACK BLADE" TO SPRING WITH BOLT OR PIN? WOULD THE TRACTION CONTROL HELP WITH USING THE BACK BLADE FOR SNOW REMOVAL? THANKS FOR THE HELP! TOM

If the blade has an end on it the same as your drawbar you should be set to go (I've never seen a pin type??? blade before). I don't think that the traction booster will help much in snow because the slick surfaces won't allow much traction to begin with. Your best bet will be chains on the tires for traction.

Does your WD have a bell shaped housing that the front of the drawbar goes into (known as the snap coupler)? Some WD's still only have the horizontal pin holding the drawbar on. If you have the snap coupler, remove the drawbar and then back the tractor into the blade until you hear it "snap" into the housing. You may have to put a block under the "tongue" of the blade to get it to the correct heighth. After it is snapped in you can attach the lift arms. Remove the pin in the center of the braces to make this easier, then replace the pin after lifting the blade up.

Thanks for the all the help. Got blade attached and plowed about 3 inches of snow the yesterday. Will take some getting use to but works. Still have to play around with the delayed lift, hold etc; have not figured it out yet. THANKS AGAIN!