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Discussion Forum

Re: WD

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Bill (MN)

10-12-2002 19:13:37

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Depends on where your at and the over-all shape of the tractor. If running between 800-1200 by me. (Mid-west)
Recent rebuilds will of course bring top end. Prices cannot be accuratly based on auctions...I just saw a narrow front WD in so-so shape auctioned inaccuratly as a 45 go for $1800. A previous auction and similar tractor $700. The more that comes with it the more it is probably worth-implements specifically designed for WD's are hard to find. Hope this helps.


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Buddy Terry

10-13-2002 14:57:06

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 Re: Re: WD in reply to Bill (MN), 10-12-2002 19:13:37  
I just bought a 51 WD last weekend that has been sitting for awhile, engine is stuck, but has all most new rubber all the way around and sheetmetal in great shape, with rear wheel weights for $300.00. The only thing that concerns me is that the oil pan was full of anti-freeze. I just hope the block is in good shape when I tear it down. Do you think I did ok on the deal?
In Ga.

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Buddy Terry

10-14-2002 07:38:04

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 Re: Re: Re: WD in reply to Buddy Terry, 10-13-2002 14:57:06  
Thanks for all the comments about the WD. I felt like I got a good deal, at the time I did not know the engine had anti-freeze in the oil pan. I saw one last March at an auction that was not in as good of shape as the one I bought sell for $1600.00. I hope to tear this one down in the next few weeks to see how bad it is internally. I just hope the block is repairable, but I really hope it is a sleeve that is busted or head gasket blown, or frezze plug. Just wishful thinking.
Buddy Terry

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Archie in mo.

10-19-2002 18:18:32

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: WD in reply to Buddy Terry, 10-14-2002 07:38:04  
Buddy I have a wd it started getting some antifreeze in the oil. It was a freeze plug in the head. Couldn't see it must have opened up when engine got warm.

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Bill (MN)

10-13-2002 17:54:03

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 Re: Re: Re: WD in reply to Buddy Terry, 10-13-2002 14:57:06  
Of course you did Buddy but it sounds like your gonna need a block or fix the one you have...probably easier to find another dead one with a good block. New rubber alone makes it more than worth what you paid. I'll bet if you spent the money to completly rebuild the motor it will last until your great great grandchildren are ready to use it!

To me WD's and 45's are about the best bet out there if your going to use the tractor in the field. They are absolute workhorses and if you break something parts are easy enough to come by. Three point hitch adapters are available so you can use modern smaller implements if you want. I find the implements made for the tractors work best though.

More about value. Some time ago somebody here wrote that a tractor is only worth what someone is willing to pay. Very true! When compared to the price of the new smaller tractors like the little JD's and Kubotas the prices WD's go for are a steal. The modern tractors would never hold up to what most WD's have gone thru let alone still be functionl 50 years from now. If something breaks on a modern tractor chances are your going to have to pay someone to fix it. The WD's were designed to be easily fixed. Even the quality of the metal in the old tractors are far superior...they used virgin metals and plenty of it. In comparison I think the new ones are junk!

Have fun bringing your new find back to life.


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10-14-2002 04:08:31

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: WD in reply to Bill (MN), 10-13-2002 17:54:03  
Hi Forum


Sound about right to me the new one's ( tractors ) are Junk. They may be a little newer and go a little better at first but in the long haul of well 50 years or so, better look for something made before 70's in My opinnion. I think most war time equipment is good ( WWII ) made to out last and to be worked on, from parts to welding housings. A good friend of my welds, say's don't bring any new parts ( last 20 years or so ) to me Teddy, tried of tring to weld them and it not working. He is like me; If we welds it and it breaks bring it back and we will weld it again( if our weld breaks). I looked at Bill's Post, and thought about last year brushing hogging a 60 + acre hillside. Was going along and hit a Plows dead frow , it was from about 7 years of plowing wrong about 3 feet high, was in 3rd WD doing about 5 mph I would guess. I'm lucky first off . Did not turn over I would be dead. But the tractor hit so hard, I think it was off the ground from the looks of the grass. Stopped and after Praying and checking me out. I look at the tractor , she was still running turn her off. Not one thing was broken. I have heard allot of people talk about wide front and narrow; new and old . I like narrow front, back wheels with water , WD for the back tires ( rims on rails) and better than average power for there size and the age ( WWII time frame ). Good Luck with Your New Toy !!

Punchie !!

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10-14-2002 05:31:32

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: WD in reply to Punchie, 10-14-2002 04:08:31  

I'll bet you would still be looking for all of the shattered parts if that was a Kubota you ran into that dead furrow. I've also had some circumstances where I was amazed that the tractor stood up to the punishment. (I've visited a ditch or two in my time.)

Wide VS Narrow- This should probably posted as a lead post. I work a small 40 acre organic farm and have used narrow front and wide equally. I have a loader on an over-build WD with a wide front. I like it for snow removal but I also have a narrow front WD45. The tractors are very close in power so it really isnt a factor. I like the narrow front much better for working in the field. You can turn it on a dime which makes it real nice for planting and cultivating. (I have a snap-coupler planter that still works great!) I also get a lot more out of plowing because of the short turn radius. I know folks are paying big money for wide fronts but I personally cant see it. A good friend has a loader on a narrow front and would'nt have it any other way...never has a problem getting stuck...probably because the tractor has enough power to push thru just about anything.


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