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Discussion Forum
:

Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45

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SD

10-10-2002 16:27:26




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Hello,

Im getting ready to pull the motor on my WD45 and Im wondering which is the best way to rig it. Should I trust the valve cover bolts to hold the weight of the engine? Any tips would be greatly appreciated...I've never pulled a tractor motor.

Thanks,
SD




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Tom Westerfield(KY)

10-12-2002 13:25:02




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
Just finished the process. I have an overhead hoist. I made a bracket out of 2 inch angle iron, long enough to span the four bolts that hold on the valve cover. I drilled holes in one face of the angle iron to match the 1st and 4th valve cover bolt. I cut notches for the other two. On the other face of the angle iron I drilled a hole 1 inch to the rear of center. The latter is to cause the engine to raise on the front a little higher than the rear. You do have to release the crank and the steering to pull the motor up but its rather quick.

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Punchie

10-11-2002 09:56:55




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
Hi Forum

Why are you pulling the enghine?

If it is for the clutch? Why take of anything from the enghine? I strap( lifting strap in good shape) the engine, just a little back heavy, and with the chain falls( come-a-long, chain block) to the front. I have to watch using a one ton chain block you can lift the wrong thing and break something.

If it is engine work take off the oil pan. May need to add a couple of wood blocks for spacers ( so that your able turn the enghine over(to be clear of the crank) if need) before you lift using a strap .

I don't like chains to lift the can cut into or crush something ( if you are wraping it around ).

Try to leave room to move the tractor if needed, it is on wheel and easy to move. The engine is out is not the time to think , boy it would be nice to be able to set it in a truck. Or lower it down to put on a enghine stand. Also make sure wheels are blocked up and breaks are on. If you put it in gear the engine is not going to hold it, and the tractor should be it neutral any way to pull the engine.

Be safe and look twice !!

Punchie

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Dick L

10-11-2002 09:45:56




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
A little device I made up to lift and move engines around with. This one works with or with out the valve cover on.



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JMS/MN

10-10-2002 22:41:19




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
believe Tom- Dad did it that way 50 years ago, and it still works today. No need to make a big production out of it. All we had back then was a wire stretcher and a heavy ceiling beam in the shop.



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Gordon in IN

10-10-2002 19:24:24




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
I like to take the manafold off first. Then rig the engine to a "engine tilt and leveling fixture" with a small chain at the front and rear of the engine. Attach the front chain to the front manifold stud on one side and the top front cover plate bolt on the other side. Attach the rear chain the same way - rear manifold stud on one side and top rear cover plate bolt on the other. This allows for complete balanced load and tilting the engine for easy removal. I have never had to move or remove the pedistal or a side rail. Taking the cylinder head off first is another way to go if you have limited lift capability or prefer to do the job that way. Removing and reinstalling the cylinder head on the tractor is just as easy or easier than doing it on an engine stand or work bench anyway. Torquing the cylinder head is easier on the tractor. Good luck, Gordon in IN

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Tom

10-10-2002 18:08:59




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
I would guess the engine weighs 400 lbs. The valve cover bolts will work. Or you could take off the head and have it that much lighter. I just installed a WD engine without the head, using short 2s2" angles bolted to the holes for two head studs, studs removed. You don't have to move the pedestal forward, you do have to move the steering shaft out of the way. Take off the universal joint from the pedestal shaft and maybe the steering shaft from the steering wheel and get the steering shaft out of the way and the engine will come forward enough to tip the front up and clear everything. Oh, got to take the support for the crank off of the pedstal and pull the cranking shaft forward too, to get room to pull the engien forward. Check your copy of an AC manual, but this is basically how it is done.

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Tom

10-10-2002 18:08:26




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
I would guess the engine weighs 400 lbs. The valve cover bolts will work. Or you could take off the head and have it that much lighter. I just installed a WD engine without the head, using short 2s2" angles bolted to the holes for two head studs, studs removed. You don't have to move the pedestal forward, you do have to move the steering shaft out of the way. Take off the universal joint from the pedestal shaft and maybe the steering shaft from the steering wheel and get the steering shaft out of the way and the engine will come forward enough to tip the front up and clear everything. Oh, got to take the support for the crank off of the pedstal and pull the cranking shaft forward too, to get room to pull the engien forward. Check your copy of an AC manual, but this is basically how it is done.

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AL

10-10-2002 17:37:58




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 Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to SD, 10-10-2002 16:27:26  
move the front pedstal ahead one set of holes..then you can lift the motor out...if you are nervous..use 2 head bolts to lift....an alternate method is to remove the left side rail and pull the engine that way...Al



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ACSam

10-10-2002 17:44:44




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 Re: Re: Best way to rig motor for removal-WD45 in reply to AL , 10-10-2002 17:37:58  
How much would you figure the engine weighs? I think I'm facing the same situation. Thank You.



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