Wd45 12v conversion

12 volts is just more reliable. No more messing with the cutout. No more trying to find the proper charge rate with the light switch. When you pull the starter lever, the engine actually cranks over - at a nice brisk speed!

Difficult to install? Not at all. The hardest part of the whole installation is fabricating the mounting bracket for the alternator. And with just a few basic tools, a hacksaw and drillmotor, that isn't a big deal either. Don't be fooled by the discussions of "this way" and "that way" to make the installation. One way is just a variation of the other.

All the ways that are listed for the #1 all do the same thing basically. Shut the power off after the engine is shut down. The #1 circuit is designed to "excite" the alternator by supplying power to the regulator in the alternator. Once the engine is running, the regulator excited, the alternator starts it's charging process. Because an early tractors wiring system does not utilize great amounts of power for accessories such as heater, wipers, etc like an automobile, other than lights (if equipped) and the ignition, (if it's distributor) that's about it. A resistor in the system as Steve mentioned actually helps the basic system to charge better because it's constently calling for just a little bit of power which keeps the alternator charging in a low RPM range. Depending on the system, after the alternator is in the charging mode and the key turned to the off position to shut the engine down, an alternator can generate enough power and "backfeed" the system through #1 through the ignition switch enough to keep the ignition circuit "energized" and the engine will continue to run with the key off. I install a diode in the exciter circuit in my harnesses to stop any backfeed that the alternator may put out after the engine is switched off. Other manufacturers use the same technic. Simple, but effective. I use the same technic in the wiring systems I do for Street Rods & Performance vehicles. Steve B.