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Discussion Forum
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Wd45 brakes

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dennis

08-20-2002 08:38:26




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How much can I expect to pay for a brake job on my wd45? Is it something a novice tractor guy can do at home.? Thanks, Dennis




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Dave K. (Fl)

08-23-2002 17:50:10




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 Re: wd45 brakes in reply to dennis, 08-20-2002 08:38:26  
If you get lucky on those bottom pins it is a very simple job. On my WD someone before me coated them with grease before installing and they slid out by hand. You do need the manual to adjust them right though.

Dave



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JMS/MN

08-20-2002 13:49:13




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 Re: wd45 brakes in reply to dennis, 08-20-2002 08:38:26  
Not that big of a deal, if you're the least bit handy with tools. Now, who is going to say no to that? Very simple, basic system. Get the I & T manual for a good explanation of how to do it (illustrated). Biggest headache is usually the pins that hold the lower end of the shoes. Soak everything with penetrant, give it time- oftentimes a vise-grip will wiggle and pull the pins free. Sometimes big hammer knocks things loose. Or weld flat iron to pin to act as handle and pound on it. (drill flat iron to slip over pin, then weld). Heat often loosens binding parts, or apply candle wax, let cool while wax melts into parts, never lost the battle with one of them yet.

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Denny

08-20-2002 09:31:40




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 Re: wd45 brakes in reply to dennis, 08-20-2002 08:38:26  
It is a tough job. The toughest part is getting those infernal pins out of the bottom of the casting that hold the bottom of the bands. I worked on my D-17 (has same system) for two weekends before giving up. I've heard that drilling and tapping the pin is the only solution. A guy once told me about 7 years ago that he got one side done on his D-17 for $250.
Good luck,



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Tom

08-20-2002 17:50:37




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 Re: Re: wd45 brakes in reply to Denny, 08-20-2002 09:31:40  
Yes, drilling and tapping works, but to do it there are a few things you need to be aware of. Drill for a 3/3-24 tap, use a new tap. the pins are case hardened, grind up to 1/16 off the end. Centerpunch as close to center as possible. Drill as straight as you can, have someone help by sighting the drill as you go. Use a small drill moter to help you get the drill up in proper alignment. Take off the wheel and tire to get room to work easier. Use a lot of cutting oil on the (new and sharp) tap, you don't want to break lit. Use a grade 8 or better capscrew or threaded rod, it can take a lot to get these pins out. Drill and tap deep enough to get 1/2 " of threads in past the neck in the pin, you can pull the end of the pin off, the neck isn't very strong when you get a 3/8 : thread in it. It won't weaken the pin, they go through a lot of casting before the breaks. If you get the pins out without this or if you use new pins, have someone with a lathe drill and tap them nice and straight before you put them in, you or someone else will thankyou someday. Fill the hole in with a capscrew to keep it clean and rust free. Put grease in the hole in the casting before putting the pins back in.

Pounding the pins IN and twisting them with a visegrip can work but maybe not too. These pins can be a bitc* but you will only have to do the job once if you grase them and they are drilled and tapped when you put them back in.

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