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Discussion Forum

Allis-chalmers WD

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John Driscoll

08-13-2002 06:35:48

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Snap coupler with a 3 point hitch conversion. When I have the bush hog on it won't stay "put" ( it keeps going up and down when I bush hog.)

What will cause this? What do I have to do to eliviate this problem?

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08-14-2002 13:42:40

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 Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to John Driscoll, 08-13-2002 06:35:48  
I generally never use the top link on a bush hog. Reason? Many shredders have solid linkage and won't budge if you go through a ditch. This causes high centering and bending up the hog. If you must use one, you need the flexible hitch type or a chain (which works very well). For height adjustment, you need to set up the hydraulics for lift and hold. Duey has covered that.

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Duey (IA)

08-13-2002 10:13:59

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 Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to John Driscoll, 08-13-2002 06:35:48  
Your bush Hog should have a tail wheel to set the height of the rear. The third (top)link should be adjusted to set the front height. With the hydraulic lever clear down, the three point should "float" to follow the contour of the ground. When you raise the hog and then let it down , it will return to the set height. If you use the hydraulic to hold the front height, the pump has to be set to the hold position and the front height will have to be readjusted to the proper height each time you raise and lower the hog. Also, check your e-mail. I sent the instructions for pump and linkage adjustments. Duey

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Jim (Mi)

08-13-2002 11:04:58

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 Re: Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to Duey (IA), 08-13-2002 10:13:59  
Duey, How do you mean to set the top link? I ask this because my hog does not have front casters and I dig into the ground unfortunately. I do not see how the top bar will stop it's decent since mine will freely travel down even if it is screwed in all the way. Or maybe perhaps I need a shorter link to control this? I have a manual with all the adjustments and mine is in the hold position and I'll be dam#$% if I can get the thing to return to the original position. I am a novice so any help would be appreciated.

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Duey (IA)

08-13-2002 12:46:44

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 Re: Re: Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to Jim (Mi), 08-13-2002 11:04:58  
The top link would have to be screwed out so pressure would be against the tractor top link attachment and against the hog top link attachment, pushing them apart and not allowing the front of the hog to go all the way down. Duey

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Duey (IA)

08-13-2002 13:16:37

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to Duey (IA), 08-13-2002 12:46:44  
Sorry, I didn't look close and I thought it was John that replyed. The Third link or top link fastens to the tractor with a bracket either fastened to the lift arm bar or a bracket fastened to the differential housing on the tractor. On the hog there should be a tower where the third link fastens above where the three point arms fasten. Spreading these two top link points apart should lift the front of the hog. The links between the lift arms and the three point arms are adjusted for leveling from side to side. Duey

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DGray in KY

08-13-2002 16:33:39

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to Duey (IA), 08-13-2002 13:16:37  
Haven't used a WD, but what we always did when using an implement like this or a hay rake or anything that had to maintain a basic height until you crossed a wash, or bit of erosion or whatever, was to cut two pieces of chain (5/16 or 3/8") and weld a quarter to 5/16 piece of flat metal with a hole drilled in it sufficient so that the bottom point pins would accept them.

We'd put the two pieces of chain from the bottom pins to the top link and that would be as low as the implement could go. The hydraulic system was at rest until you wanted to lift it over a depression, then you could lift it past the obstruction and then let it down again. Easy and easy on the equipment! Enjoy.

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Jim (Mi)

08-13-2002 09:39:29

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 Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to John Driscoll, 08-13-2002 06:35:48  
Congratulations, you have just experienced probably the only bad thing about the tractor. Their is really nothing you can do. I had my whole system rebuilt thinking that it was supposed to work like my father-in-law's Farmall. What i do on my WD is their is an exact and I mean exact position once you have it at the desired level that the lever needs to be in to stay put. I then clamp on a small bar clamp to the quadrant not allowing the lever to move. Good Luck.

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Farmer Brown

08-29-2002 20:14:29

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 Re: Re: Allis-chalmers WD in reply to Jim (Mi), 08-13-2002 09:39:29  
If the hydraulics will not hold even with controls set in the hold position, you might need to replace the hold valve seat. Early WD had a seat that was not hardened and could peen out. Later models had a hardened seat which is what the repair part is. We had 3 WD's, one would not hold at all and the other two would. The one that would not was a '49.

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