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Alternator and hydraulic seal replacement

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Mike

06-26-2002 21:07:27




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I just added a one wire alternator to my AC CA tractor. However, the voltmeter says when the engine starts the alternator is putting out 13 volts. As the tractor runs, you can watch the volts drop to 12, 11, 10, etc slowly. Not sure if alternator or battery. Charged battery for tow days before firing tractor.

I have alot of leakage in the hydraulic system. Thought I would go from the tranny out to the wheels, replacing all seals. Not a mechanic, however, have some mechanical apptitude. Is there a seal kit or do you buy seals one at at time? Are they tough to do? For safety reasons, do you do one side at a time?

Thanks again for all of the help on this site.

Mike

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Steve in N.J.

06-27-2002 13:36:25




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 Re: alternator and hydraulic seal replacement in reply to Mike, 06-26-2002 21:07:27  
Mike,

First thing you want to do is a load test on the battery your using. This will identify whether the battery is good to start off with. When you pull a "draw" with a good draw tester, the needle shouldn't drop much, or at all if any. If it drops way down, it's battery time. Now, on 1 wire alternators, most 1 wires need 1000-1200 rpm's to excite the regulator for charging to start. Once the charging rate starts, it will charge till you shut off the tractor. (Charging rate should be between 13.9-14.5 14.2 is ideal)If you're using a voltmeter, a voltmeter hooks up differently than the OEM Ammeter. On the back of your voltmeter: the plus (+) to the battery or starter motor, and the ground (-) to the battery ground anchor bolt or battery grounding post itself. That's it! Also, it couldn't hurt to install an auxilary ground wire off the back of the alternator just to make sure the alternator has a good ground to the engine block. If you're using a 10SI style Delco Alternator, there is a threaded hole on the back to attach a ground wire. Good Luck, & have fun! Steve B.

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Butch (OH)

06-27-2002 10:39:29




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 Re: alternator and hydraulic seal replacement in reply to Mike, 06-26-2002 21:07:27  
Mike, If that CA is a narrow front do one side at a time. If it is a wide front you can crib from the motor to the axle to prevent tipping. When I was young, dad and I walked into the dealers shop and there was a narrow front Farmall split for a clutch job with the bell housing supported by a stand. Somebody walked up and leaned on the grill and it fell over. Left a lasting impression on me.



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Duey (IA)

06-27-2002 09:12:53




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 Re: alternator and hydraulic seal replacement in reply to Mike, 06-26-2002 21:07:27  
Mike,
How do you have the voltmeter hooked up? An amp gauge is origional equipment and a voltmeter can not be hooked up to the same wires!!! Duey



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Mike

06-27-2002 20:02:26




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 Re: Re: alternator and hydraulic seal replacement in reply to Duey (IA), 06-27-2002 09:12:53  
Thanks for all of the comments. I will check the battery. Will do one side at a time and the voltmeter is hooked up correctly. I talked to an alternator person before wiring it in.

Thanks again for the help
Mike



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