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Discussion Forum

Hydrolic or transmission fluid?

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05-23-2002 12:54:36

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A real newbie question here. I'm just getting started using a "B" with an L59 woods mower to do some mowing. What type of oil should I use in the gear box? I have a technical parts manual that looks like the hydrolic system is directly connected to the gear box, using the same fluid. I noticed it is extremely low after I was having trouble getting it into gear. Hopefully this will take care of the problem. I hope it dosn't need a new clutch.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Is there any resourse available to help with basic operating questions.

Thanks, Eric

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05-24-2002 05:45:18

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 Re: hydrolic or transmission fluid? in reply to Eric, 05-23-2002 12:54:36  
I really appreciate all your help... what a resource. I'll be picking up supplies and ordering the book suggested..... and keeping my fingers crossed. I'm learning a lot!

Thanks again.


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05-23-2002 18:28:04

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 Re: hydrolic or transmission fluid? in reply to Eric, 05-23-2002 12:54:36  
If the transmission was very low, well maybe there wasn't enough oil to slow down the gears even though there was enough to lube them. When it is full to the proper level some of the gears will be covered and the rest mostly covered with oil which will tend to slow them down when the clutch is in. Once when changing engines I had a pilot bearing that was just tight enough to make the clutch seem to not release well, caused grinding on trying to get it into gear. Once the bearing started to spin on the shaft it spun OK and acted normal but it didn't want to realease and let the shaft spin in the bushing. A little lapping with valve grind compound and a similar size shaft fixed it.

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05-23-2002 15:18:55

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 Re: hydrolic or transmission fluid? in reply to Eric, 05-23-2002 12:54:36  
the spec 50 years ago was 20 wt engine oil. today there are much better oils. go to Wal Mart or the local Farm Center and buy a 2-1/2 gallon container of trans-hydraulic fluid. It is basically 20 wt oil, but is especially formaulated to be anti-foaming and have water dispersants. It is much better for transmissions and hydraulic systems. You are right, the transmission, rear axle and pto- hydraulic pump housing use the same oil. It is filled by your left foot into the transmission cavity thru a 1 inch pipe plug. Holds about 7-8 quarts. There are three drain plugs on the bottom, 1/2 inch pipe plugs on each cavityy. Drain all three. If the oil is white or milky looking, it has rain water inside, usually thru the trnasmission shift boot. Bryan is right, this is all goo info, but probably has nothing to do with the shifting, unless the oil it crudy and lots of water in it. Also a good idea to pull the sheetmetal pans off the bottom of each final drive (inside the rear wheel) and clean out and refill thru the 1/2 inch pipe plug. Use 80-90 wt gear lube. You can get a book at www.binderbook.com, or order theu Kings. They only cost $10.00

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Bryan Smith

05-23-2002 13:37:30

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 Re: hydrolic or transmission fluid? in reply to Eric, 05-23-2002 12:54:36  
Check out my website - there is a specs page there as well as a list of oils for various sections of the tractor. The oil you mention is for transmission and hydraulics and is generally a 20w non-detergent oil.

Bad news is low oil usually doesn't do anything for getting it in gear if it's "grinding". If it's just hard to shift then the oil may help - and a squirt or two of grease on the clutch release bearing (the alemite is seen looking in the hole on the bottom of the torque tube between the engien and the tranny).

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05-30-2002 12:47:41

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 Re: Re: hydrolic or transmission fluid? in reply to Bryan Smith, 05-23-2002 13:37:30  
You were right on your last response. Although the oil was low filling it didn't help at all. It is very difficult to get it in gear. The gears just don't slow down enough to get in out of nuetral. Is it time to find a good mechanic to replace the clutch? What type of repair bill am I looking at.

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Bryan Smith

05-30-2002 13:08:58

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 Re: Re: Re: hydrolic or transmission fluid? in reply to Eric, 05-30-2002 12:47:41  
Yep. My 1949 B needs a clutch too. It's not hard to do - splitting a B doesn't take much, just the proper stands/chains for safety and time. The clutch/pressure plate/release bearing will probably run around $200 to $250 for the parts, maybe less depending on where you get them. Plus labor ...

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