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Discussion Forum
:

Wd changing all lubercants

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Noah

03-26-2002 13:19:25




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I have purchased a 1952 WD. It is my first tractor (Kids have named it "good old Alice". Previous owerner did not keep up on maintenance so I have been doing some reading on what needs to be done to keep the old girl running. I have purchased the service mannual and owners mannual and have read through most of the archive information on this site to get most of my questions answered before I post a question. Here are my questions. I want to change out the tranmission fluid. Maunual points to two filler plugs on the drivers left side and has the same lable pointing to both "Transmission, Differential & Transmission Clutch Filler Plug" Manual says "Fill all three compartments through transmission filler plug" So which hole do I pour the new stuff into?? As I said, both are on the drivers left. one is near the clutch pedal and the other is further forward just behind the Hydraulic pumb filler port. Also,is there more than one drain plug for these three compartments?? Next Question. I assume that the Hydraulic pumb dipstick hole is the same place that I pour the new fluid. Last question for now. I want to change the final gear oil. I see the fill plug but no drain plug. Will I need to unbolt and remove the lower housing to change out the oil??? I am trying to get all the lub changed this week so I can put it to use next week. Greatly appreciate any guidance you all can give me.

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Noah

03-27-2002 06:56:41




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 Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Noah, 03-26-2002 13:19:25  
Glenn, Tom, and Dave, Thanks a bunch!!! It will sure make the weekend fun knowing alittle more about what I will be doing. Should be a good time, Wife and kids are heading to the inlaws for a couple of days and I get the place to myself...just me and the WD! One more question if you don't mind. What is the best way to clean out the gas tank??? Thanks again.



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Steve in N.J.

03-27-2002 13:07:43




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 Re: Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Noah, 03-27-2002 06:56:41  
Noah,

The fuel tank on my B had a lot of sediment in it and it was also "peppered" on the bottom. I had my radiator man service the tank and he also coated the inside to re-seal it. Some radiator shops do service fuel tanks. It cost me about $75. bucks total but came out great! That may be an option to think about for your WD....Just a thought...



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Dave Grubb

03-27-2002 12:10:46




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 Re: Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Noah, 03-27-2002 06:56:41  
If you are wanting to remove dried/gummed up old gas I would drain and remove the tank and pour a quart or two of MEK in the tank and slosh it around for a while; and then pour that out. If you are wanting to remove rust the best idea I have read is to wash the tank out with soap and water, add some gravel to the tank, put the cap on the tank, tarp strap the tank to a drive wheel on your garden tractor, jack up that wheel of the garden tractor, run the garden tractor real slow and let the tank rotate with the gravel tumbling around in side. I have never tried this but it sounds like it worked real well for the guy that did try it. I would be sure to wash the tank with soap and water real good before I tried this, one spark from that gravel in there hitting the tank and goodbye! There is another real good post here about using electrolysis for parts cleaning that I copied and put in my library, it is well worth reading too.

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Glenn Deckert

03-26-2002 23:37:28




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 Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Noah, 03-26-2002 13:19:25  
Noah -- I recently performed the same maintenance on my WD 45, which, like your tractor, had received little or no previous maintenance care. After removing the hydraulic fluid reservoir drainplugs, I was surprized that NO fluid drained out even though the dipstick read full. A freind described how crude that built up over the drain holes could block drainage; he suggested inserting a small screwdriver up into the drain hole to break up the clog (which worked very well). Hope this tip helps you to avoid confusion if you have slow or no drainage like me. Good luck!

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Brian G. NY

03-27-2002 07:18:48




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 Re: Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Glenn Deckert, 03-26-2002 23:37:28  
Tom's got it right. However, the hydraulic system is totally separate and uses 20W non-detergent oil or modern day hydraulic fluid. There is a fourth separate (magnet style) plug for the hydraulics which is located at the bottom of the housing below where the hydraulic pump bolts on. There is also a small plug at the bottom of the hydraulic control which should also be drained. If you have the manual which includes the "Repair Parts Illustrations" you can get a better idea of what we're talking about if you study the breakdown drawings of the Trans./Diff. and the Torque housings.

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Tom

03-26-2002 16:56:01




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 Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Noah, 03-26-2002 13:19:25  
There are 3 drain plugs for the transmission/rear end. Under the rear end, under the transmissio, under the pto housing or in the bottom of the pto if you have one. To totally drain the old fluid you need to remove all 3. Using both filler plugs will make filling faster and more complete. If you only use one the oil will have to run through ball bearings between compartments and may not come up to the level it should. Changing the final drive oil is a little more of a hasle, but you don't have to do it often and it is worth doing every few years. Keep the boot on the shift lever in new condition, water can get into the transmission through a cracked or missing boot, it will settle in the lowest point, the pot if you have one, freeze and crack the housing, after having messed up the bearings and gears maybe.

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Dave Grubb

03-26-2002 13:57:42




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 Re: wd changing all lubercants in reply to Noah, 03-26-2002 13:19:25  
The two pipe plug filler ports near the clutch pedal should be topped off with gear oil. I use 85W140 in mine. The dip stick filler port is for hydraulic fluid servicing and should be kept in the full range with the rams extended. I use FS Power Fluid in my tractor and find that it works better than 20wt. engine oil. You could use any fluid labeled for fluid power sytems and be ok. I would not use ATF in system though. I use 85W140 gear oil in my final drives. There is no drain plug for the final drives. The drain plug on the PTO housing drains the transmission as I recall. The drain plug on the hydraulic pump case drains the hydraulic fluid and is also a magnetic plug, although it will be so covered in gunk you can't tell it until you clean it.

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