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WD CLUTCH

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DON

02-10-2002 08:03:56




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CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME IF I'M RIGHT? I THINK YOU HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE TO INSTALL A NEW CLUTCH AND THROWOUT BEARING. IT'S BEING RESTORED ANYWAY. SO DOES ANYBODY HAVE SUGGESTIONS, I WOULD GLADLY TAKE ANY SUGGESTIONS. THANKS ALOT. DON




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Duey (IA)

02-12-2002 13:55:56




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 Re: WD CLUTCH in reply to DON, 02-10-2002 08:03:56  
Don,
David T is correct. The engine can be removed without removing the side rails. You have to remove the cotter pin from the hand crank extension and the bolt that holds the bracket for the return spring, then pull the extension forward compressing the spring and the bracket going under the front cast, holding it in place with a visegrip. This will give you enough clearence to get the engine forward and out. Sometimes, loosening the steering shaft support helps to get the block flange past the steering. That's a good time to clean and paint that area too. Duey

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JMS/MN

02-12-2002 07:29:51




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 Re: WD CLUTCH in reply to DON, 02-10-2002 08:03:56  
There is no need to remove side rails to remove the engine. Tank off the hood, radiator, support the engine, remove lower front engine support. (that is the angle iron below the front of the engine- needs to be removed so the oil pan has clearance to move forward). Remove thin steel plate just in front of the clutch housing. Disconnect fuel, throttle lines, wiring to generator, magneto or ignition. Remove several bolts holding engine to clutch housing, (4?). The engine can be wiggled out of place- and an adjustable leveling bar under the hoist is a plus, but not necessary if you hook the hoist so the engine is close to balanced. If you remove the valve cover, you can use those 4 bolts to support the engine if you drill matching holes in a 1/4 inch angle iron, and attach the iron to the top of the engine.

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Dave in Mo

02-12-2002 09:02:07




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 Re: Re: WD CLUTCH in reply to JMS/MN, 02-12-2002 07:29:51  
Thanks for the info, will archive this idea just in case!



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David T (MO)

02-11-2002 06:43:19




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 Re: WD CLUTCH in reply to DON, 02-10-2002 08:03:56  
You're right on track with the clutch. I'd also suggest replacing the front hydraulic reservoir seal while you have the clutch off.

Good luck!



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Dave in Mo

02-11-2002 07:44:09




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 Re: Re: WD CLUTCH in reply to David T (MO), 02-11-2002 06:43:19  
Dave, it sound as though you've put a new clutch your machine already. Did you remove just one siderail or did you have to disassemble the whole thing including steering box, engine, transmission, etc. or is there some trick to keep all these assemblies aligned. Just in case I ever have to work on my WD's clutch!



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David T (MO)

02-11-2002 21:30:43




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 Re: Re: Re: WD CLUTCH in reply to Dave in Mo, 02-11-2002 07:44:09  
I've only done the research on the WD45 clutch, not gotten my hands greasy... yet. I'm told that you can get the engine out without removing either rail or the front end. Remove the radiator and there should be just enough room to slide the engine forward to clear the clutch housing with a twist and a roll here and there.

The hydraulic seal is the reason I'm considering pulling the engine, but she's running too sweet to mess thing up yet. Until then, a couple of washers between the clutch housing and access plate to let the oil drain out, with a bucket under the tractor to trap the dribbles since kitty litter can't handle the volume. (I've cristened the bucket 'The Val-dez III' for the number of times I've forgotten to pull it out before driving off.) One of these days, I'll replace that seal... and the clutch... and rebuild the engine... just not yet.

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