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Enamel Paint Question

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Rick in NC

10-05-2001 16:32:11

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Thanks for the great response to my clutch questions. Think that I will invest in all new parts just to be sure.

A question about enamel paint. When I bought my 1950 A-C Model B, I knew nothing about antique tractors. I just knew that I had found what I thought was the most beautiful tractor ever built. So, I decided to give her a fresh coat of paint since the prior owner had spray painted over grease, oil, and rust.

I never knew that paint needs a hardener so the paint that I put on from Tractor Supply is soft and gets softer if I spill gas on it and allow it to sit for a while.

My question is: I was told by a neighbor that if I lightly sand the enamel and spray on a top coat of enamel with hardener, that the hardener will also have a hardening effect on the bottom coat. Any truth to this?

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tim

10-24-2001 09:02:56

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Re: Enamel Paint Question in reply to Rick in NC, 10-05-2001 16:32:11

Rick dont waste your time using tractor supply paint ive used it on some farm equipment and did not like it, not strong enough yes alot of people claim you can add hardner to reqular enamal paints
but you really taking a gamble with that because that enamal product sold without the extra hardner was not orignally designed to be mixed with a different manufacturer of hardner, when mixing the two its like trying to be a chemist it could work but then theres a good chance some thing could go wrong like paint lifting, fish eyes orange pealing the paint may have a dule finish, or later down the road the paint can become so hard from the primer that is tends to beome brittle and fall of the tractor. Ive paint many tractor through the years and ive seen people add the after market hardners to there cheaper paint and get burnt enerytime. my advise
strip the original paint i sand blast the frame and casting parts of the tractor dont sand blast the sheet metal bacause you can warp them trying paint remover on them and then sand. striping all the paint take extra time and a little more money but it helps insure a quality paint job. I use a automotive type paint that is comes with all the right hardners that the paint was designed for its a polyuathane base paint and i use a primer that is designed to go underneath this paint. Go to a few of the paint stores and tell them what you are doing they can fix you up with all the right paints you need the key is make sure all the paints you use are compatible with each other or you could have problems. there is nothing wrong using enamal paint i just finished doing a JD 4020 with a primer and 3- coats of JD enamal paint it turned out great.

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kent

10-08-2001 05:25:43

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Re: Enamel Paint Question in reply to Rick in NC, 10-05-2001 16:32:11

yes you can do that, i've done it before. try to scuff up some of the larger areas with a scotchbrite pad. spray your first coat very dry...kind of a dust coat. allow plenty of time between coats or it will wrinkle!!! at least 20 minutes and that's if the temperature is 70 degrees. colder means longer. do the 2nd coat very dry too like dust. allow another twenty minutes or more. then lay it on nice and wet. all the dust coats were performed to create a barrier so that the final wet coat will not lift the paint underneath. If you don't have enough paint for 3 coats you may be able to skip the 2nd dust coat or just put the 2nd dust coat on the sheet metal. good luck, Kent

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Harlen Larson

10-05-2001 18:18:10

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Re: Enamel Paint Question in reply to Rick in NC, 10-05-2001 16:32:11

This is mostly true if you can actually get the paint layed down. Your old paint dried but never cured so it can be softened by solvent way too easy. The biggest problem with trying to put anything over an uncatalized paint is that the solvents from the new paint being sprayed drive into the old paint and often times will lift and wrinkle the old paint. The only thing you can really do is to try a small spot and see how it reacts. Old lacquer paints were soft like this and there are sealers that can be used to hold the old finish down as an alternative. Worst case you'll have to strip it. But if you do get it covered it will hold up then just fine. Good Luck

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Bill

10-07-2001 05:15:26

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Re: Re: Enamel Paint Question in reply to Harlen Larson, 10-05-2001 18:18:10

I HATE using the sand blaster. One of the dirtiest jobs you could ever do while sweating to death inside that head/face protector... Can't get myself to invest the time to do it right under those conditions. Consequently I too have expierenced the old paint wrinkling & lifting under the new. 9 times outs 10 if I let the project set a few weeks & go back the paint has settled down into place & everything looks good. Maybe I just been lucky... Just a thought type contribution.

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T.J.

10-07-2001 12:10:11

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Re: Re: Re: Enamel Paint Question in reply to Bill, 10-07-2001 05:15:26

If the paint is really soft you might be able to knock it off with a pressure washer with a paint stripper nozzle. T.J.

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