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Wd Down Pressure

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Jim (Mi)

09-27-2001 05:38:48




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With the linkage set in hold position, how much pressure downward does this have? I understand it does not have down pressure like a Farmall, but I cannot even get my blade to stay down. By staying down, I mean when running over a little hill, the blade will ride right over top of it, then drop right back down. This does not seem right. Also even after the rebuild of the system I still cannot seem to be able to keep my brushhog in a position without using a clamp. This does not seem right. The quadrant is tight, there just has a be an exact position to keep it to stay, and even then it will still ride up or down. I am sure I just need the turn A, B, C, or D screw, but I am not familiar with the system.

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David T. (MO)

09-27-2001 09:43:24




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 Re: Wd Down Pressure in reply to Jim (Mi), 09-27-2001 05:38:48  
The WD line hydraulic system has no down pressure other than the weight of the implement. You need to tilt your blade back to cut deeper and/or add weight onto the blade to keep it from riding over those small hills.

In hold postion the lift should never drift upward if the linkages are adjusted properly. It may drift downward if there is an imperfect seal between the hold position check valve ball and its seat. The ball can be re-seated by using a one pound hammer and a soft punch and striking a hard blow to the ball.

Another thing I have done is swap the position of the left ram hose and the remote hydraulic line so that both ram hoses are behind the hold position valve.

Here are the instructions to properly set up the pump for hold position and adjust the linkages:

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The most commonly used set up for me is the hold position setting. The lowest knob on the side of the pump is the drawbar adjustment ("A"). It is used for pulling plows and the like and gives traction control. Turn this knob all the way into the body detent locking the plate into position. The second knob is on top of the pump on the side linkages. This is the hold position adjustment ("B"). Turn it so that it locks the two plates together, allowing them to move as one. The third knob is also on top but on the front of the pump's hold position valve. This controls the delay lift ("C"). Turn it most the way in will increase spring pressure on the check ball and may help keep the lift from drifting downward due to oil leaking past the seat. The last knob is on the front of the pump about half way down. It controls the rate of lift ("D"). Turning it all the way out gives you fast lift. All the way in is slow lift. (I have mine set about halfway.)

Once you have the pump setup for the job you want to do, you need to adjust the linkages. (I'm going on memory here so hopefully someone will check me on this.) First with the tractor off move the lift control to the full up position. There is an adjustment just under the gas tank on the large linkage to the hydraulic pump. Loosen this and push the linkage down to take all the play out of the pump and retighten. Move the control back to the down position. Turn the second knob I mentioned above (the hold position knob "B") into the detent in the body of the pump separating the two plates and locking the inner plate to the pump. Now loosen the smaller linkage adjust which is on the outer plate so the rod moves easily but be careful the rod doesn't slide all the way out. Now start the tractor and raise the lift to max height and shut the tractor off with the control still in max lift. Stand on the lift arms and slowly lower the lift control until the pump releases completely and the lift drops freely. (This should be about halfway down the quadrant.) Now, being careful to not move the position of the control, go back to the outer plate and rotate it so that you can turn control "B" back out of the pump so that the inner and outer plates are again locked together. Being careful to not move the control linkages, rotate the plates counter-clockwise until you feel it click into a detent and tighten the small linkage adjustment.

You may have to tweak it here and there depending on how worn your linkages are and I don't recall the adjustments for the traction boost linkages down to the drawbar (and don't use them anyway as mine doesn't have the linkages) but that should cure your creep problem. The control may still creep up from full down to the detent but the lift will stay down. (I normally keep the control at the detent anyway.)

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Hope this helps.

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Jim (Mi)

09-27-2001 10:48:11




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 Re: Re: Wd Down Pressure in reply to David T. (MO), 09-27-2001 09:43:24  
Dave, I have a manual, so I know the positions. I just had the whole system redone. Both cylinders were treated to new rams, and packing. Also the pump was rebuilt by the Agco Dealer down the road. This was last month. The system does not leak externally a drop. Maybe I should bring the tractor to them, and have them inspect it. If I leave my blade or brushog up with the tractor off, the implements do not move. They have a preset beginner linkage setup in the manual, then you are supposed to adjust accordingly. But since I never sat on a tractor until July of 2000, I am really not to
familiar to say the least with the system. My father-in-law has a 200 Farmall, and when he presses down on the lever the thing goes down and stays, and when he presses up, the thing goes up and stays. I thought mine would act the same. Since I just did a preset, I will print this page out, and confirm everything. I have been struggling with this thing for a while now. It gets annoying that I have to keep a clamp on the quadrant to keep it in a exact position. The ball should not be stuck, but I will beat it tonight, actually tomorrow afternoon. THANK YOU for the response.

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