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Timing a magneto on a '45 C

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Terry D.

08-18-2001 07:53:43




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On 8/1/01 there was a posting about timing a magneto a '47 C. One of the responses explained how to do this. I have a '45 C and was wondering if the procedure for a '47 C is the same for a '45 C. I had ordered a Service Manual from Yesterday's Tractor hoping this procedure would be in it, but it wasn't. Does anyone know if there is a manual that explains how to do this?




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Phil Auten (Tx)

08-18-2001 19:33:56




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 Re: Timing a magneto on a '45 C in reply to Terry D., 08-18-2001 07:53:43  
Terry,
You can copy and paste the text from any of these posts into a Notepad file (if you're running Windows) and then print it out and stick the page into your manual. There will be some editing required to make the file more readable and you will need to give the file a unique name, but once you save it you can read or print it anytime.

Phil



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Duey (IA)

08-18-2001 08:54:27




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 Re: Timing a magneto on a '45 C in reply to Terry D., 08-18-2001 07:53:43  
Timing the mag is the same. Timing a mag.
1. If you have taken the Mag. apart, the internal gears need to be timed. (Set points at .020)
2. Remove the large cap and line the C mark on the fiber gear with the marked tooth on the steel gear. Tip- turn the engine backwards to get the steel gear tooth to stop straight up and position the C mark on the fiber gear straight down. This times the rotor to the points. It is pretty simple in theory. Like all four cycles, the piston comes to TDC (top dead center) twice for every time the magneto or distributor rotor goes around. The left side has a hole in the bell housing where you can see the timing mark on the flywheel("B"&"C"). ("WD" &" WD45" The timing mark is found by looking under the flywheel housing for a small hole possibly covered by a small plate held with two wing bolts. The FIRE mark and the TDC mark are located on the flywheel through this hole. Use a little light colored paint to make seeing them much easier). 3. Take out the #1 spark plug, and put your thumb over the hole while hand cranking engine(best to have all the plug wires off while doing this so the tractor doesn't try to fire) , the cylinder will force air past your finger on the compression stroke. (The other FIRE is exhaust stroke and has the exhaust valves open so no air will come out of the plug hole).
4. When you feel the air coming past your thumb, look for the FIRE mark on the flywheel. When this mark is centered in the hole, the rotor on the mag should be just lower than the #1 lug in the mag. Looking at it as a clock, #1 lug should be near 10:00. Just before the lug is a plastic stud called the timing stud. Perfect timing is when the rotor points to the timing stud while the FIRE mark on the flywheel is centered in the hole. 5. If your rotor points to 5:00 your mag is 180 degrees off and needs to be removed and the coupling turned till you achieve 10:00. If it is not right on the timing stud, you can loosen the mag and rotate it until it is. 7. Put it all back together and time your spark plug wires 1-2-4-3 clockwise on the magneto cap.


The magneto is a self generating ignition system. Inside there is an armature and field magnets just like a generator. The armature/field generates the low voltage required by the internal coil that steps up the voltage for the spark plugs. The coil, points and condenser and rotor are all inside the magneto and operate without any outside wires or voltage. The only wire required is to short out this system to stop the engine. The magneto also has an impulse start mechanism that stops the armature from turning momentarily and then clicks loudly when it lets go. This does two things. One it retards the spark so it does not kick back and two, when it lets go, the armature spins fast enough to generate the low voltage required for getting a spark when hand cranked very slow.

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Joel

08-20-2001 18:25:19




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 Re: Re: Timing a magneto on a '45 C in reply to Duey (IA), 08-18-2001 08:54:27  

Seems like you are missing the last step. After the previous steps are completed, position the mag to one side of it's adjustment, turn the engine over with the crank 2 revs until the TDC shows (make sure that TDC showing is truly TDC crank position). If the mag trips adjust the mag all the way to the other side. Turn the engine over again 2 revs until the TDC is showing again and the mag does not click. With the engine in this position, tap the mag the other way until the impulse trips. Then tighten the hold-down bolts. This guarantees that when you hand crank, the impulse will NOT fire before TDC and kick back.

I love mags and if the lag angle is set correctly, the mag trips at low, hand-crank speed at TDC and then advances to full advance when the engine is running. The impulse not only creates spark at low speed by giving the mag rotor a quick flip but also delays the timing to prevent kick-back while cranking, very safe. Cool.

Hint, do not "spin" a mag-fired engine with the hand crank as the impulse feature may be disabled by the rapid rotation and the mag will go to full advance and kick like a son of a gun. Very bad. I ALWAYS crank with my left hand, with thumb outside of the crank where the fingers curl from outside the crank under the crank handle, and only pull up for a half turn at a time. I never push down, spin over the top, or all the way around. A sound engine with a hot mag and a good carb will always start easily this way.

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