Sputtering B.....Round 3

But, it's still happening. For those that haven't read my previous 2 posts. When I try to go up the slightest hill or put a load on my B, it starts to cough or sputter. To date, I have cleaned everything fuel related, adjusted the carb til I'm stinkin with gas fumes, cleaned plugs, re-gapped them, and replaced fuel line.
Just this week I finally got around to replacing the points and condensor as advised. Unfortunately, no change. I have not checked the timing yet, because I don't have a timing gun, nor a hand crank (static timing).

I plan to buy a timing gun. How do I set the timing with a gun? Better said - what marks do I need to line up with on the flywheel? I know the IT manual says 30' B, but how do I know from the flywheel that I'm there? Are there ticks on the flywheel to line up to?

If this doesn't fix it, then I'm going to be clueless. As I've said before, the tractor will purr like a kitten, and run on level or downhill surfaces. But, start going up a hill and it starts to cough and sputter. When you have the air filter off the carb, it almost sounds like a popping noise. The air filter somewhat muffles it so its more like a sputter.

Anyway, if timing doesn't do it, then I'm really scratching my head. I haven't replaced plug wires, dist. cap, or spark plugs. The spark plugs look pretty new.

Thanks in advance, Matt

I'm new to the antique tractor world, but not new to the antique/classic car and truck world. I've been a mechanic over 30 years and specialize in restoring classic cars & trucks. Anyway, I'm new to this site, and I to just purchased a AC-"B" and having a ball restoring it. Reading your mail, I noticed you said you cleaned and regapped your spark plugs, but did you ever replace them all together? Ignition is ignition, no matter what it's powering, a car, truck or in this case a tractor. One misfiring plug (or even two for that matter) can cause the problems you are experiencing here, especially with a 4 banger. I've run into this problem a zillion times with customer vehicles. As soon as a load is put on the engine, it won't move or runs terrible! It could be as simple as a set of new plugs. The way it sounds, you've checked through numerous items but still have the same problem. If the engine internally is okay (compression, valve train, etc) it has to be fuel or ignition. I'd almost bet a paycheck it's ignition. Try a new set of plugs. Sometimes the simplest thing is the solution to the problem... Steve from N.J.

Just grasping for straws:

1. Make sure that your distributor rotor has a little metal arm that on the contact that will allow the distributor to fire when the distributor is advanced. It is a little arc of metal (don't know the exact name of the part). When I went to the NAPA dealer for replacement parts for my '50 B, the rotor did not have the little arc of metal although it was the correct part as listed in the catalog. As I recall the correct part number for the rotor is RR301, but I am not home to make sure. Just as to look at a picture in the catalog. As I recall, the 301 is the only one with an arced arm.

2. I know that this sounds silly, but it happended to a friend's Farmall 140. Check to make sure that the center tube in your air cleaner has not been knocked too far into the oil cup by knocking the cap on too hard. His 140 ran fine until it was put under a load. Then is started running badly because it was starved for air because the tube had been pounded too far into the oil cup. It took months for him to find the problem.

Good Luck!

About adjusting the float - when cleaning up the carb, I just put things back the way they were. Are you thinking it might be getting too much fuel or not enough?

Mine is a distributor, not a magneto.

Another thing that might be causing popping in the intake (besides the intake valve not fully closing) is a small burn through (or rust through) in the manifold between the exhaust and the intake (assuming the B has a single combined manifold like my WD45, I don't know Bs that well). (When you've looked at all the likely causes and its still sputtering, you need to start looking further out in left field for answers.)

Been away for a while.....

I'll try the timing thing. I'll advance it as David says here. Concerning manifold, it wouldn't surprise me if it does a small hole. I actually replaced the manifold gasket as part of the work I've done on it to try to get it running well. I even fixed two small rust holes on the manifold when I took it off and inspected it. I didn't see any other holes, but that doesn't mean they aren't there. Another thing I checked was compression on all cylinders. All were between ~107 to 120. To me that seems pretty good. I will also invest in some new spark plugs.

Thanks.