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Break shoe anchor pin

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mushroom steve

05-05-2001 06:56:23

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Any tricks to getting a frozen one out? I've tried heat, beat, pry and everything else I could think of. The book suggests drilling, tapping and using a puller-the metal is way too hard for this.Any special tool designed or can be retrofitted for this?

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Leon in Mn.

05-07-2001 20:27:49

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Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to mushroom steve (wi), 05-05-2001 06:56:23

I had this stubborn problem once. I tried all, I mean ALL of the above with no luck. Then, an old Allis mechanic told me to cut out(torch or sawzall) a 2 inch or so chunk of the brake pin from (the bottom hole) and hammer in the outside piece. It will fall out the hole. Then the inside piece you can grab with a pliers and pull out through the hole on the bottom too. He said that the inside piece is not held in tight like the outside piece and it will always come out with a little wigglin' with a pliers. I was very skeptical, but gave it a try and it worked great. I made a new pin from a new hitch pin and coated it with never sieze and it works well. Try it! Leon in Mn.

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Wes (VA)

05-06-2001 11:03:05

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Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to mushroom steve (wi), 05-05-2001 06:56:23

I had the same problem with my CA. We took a torch to it and got the metal cherry red, -let it cool before hitting- when cooled beat on it and it may come o

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Andy.

05-06-2001 06:09:01

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Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to mushroom steve (wi), 05-05-2001 06:56:23

I had the same problem on my WD 45. I found by grinding the surface of the pin it was then able to be drilled easily. I then tapped the drilled hole and pulled them out with a bolt and socket. The new pins I made I tapped prior to installation to easily remove if ever need be. Good Luck.

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Tom

05-06-2001 15:03:33

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Re: Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to Andy., 05-06-2001 06:09:01

What a good idea, tapping the pins BEFORE installing them. Into the lathe mine will go before I put my WD back together!! Why didn't I think of that? Wonder why AC didn't tap them, they knew they would have to comeout.

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mushroom steve (wi)

05-06-2001 06:22:08

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Re: Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to Andy., 05-06-2001 06:09:01

Thanks for the help folks....tried 1/4-20 tap-kept snapping off-now to try 3/8....I'll keep bumping up till it works...

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tseifert

05-05-2001 10:13:49

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Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to mushroom steve (wi), 05-05-2001 06:56:23

The usual lubricants. I always punch from the inside out. If all else fails use the blue tip wrench and cut away the brake band then cut the center of the pin out. Then try to twist with small pipe wrench. The important part of this is that you are only trying to break one bearing surface at a time and a force applied is double.

Good luck. ,

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Rick in NC

05-07-2001 07:38:56

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Re: Re: break shoe anchor pin in reply to tseifert, 05-05-2001 10:13:49

Steve,

The way that I had to remove mine was as follows and it works well for me:

1. Center punch the outside of the pin.

2. Cut pin on each side of the brake lever and remove brake lever.

3. Drill outside end of pin with as large a drill as possible - about 9/16 since the pin is 5/8 as I recall.

4. Take a large pin punch and try to drive out the thin cylinder left in the hole. If It still won't come out, take a small grinder and cut slots through the pin. Then you should have no trouble knocking out the sections of pins one at a time.

5. The inner part of the pin can usually be removed by soaking wtih penetrating oil since there is a little well to hold the oil.

6. I replace my pins with 5/8 bolts that were long enough to cut off the threads and leave a smooth surface all the way through both sides of the hole.

7. When I put in the bolts, I used antiseize compound to prevent the bolts seizing again, plus I can put a wrench on the bolt heads to turn the pins if they do get stuck.

Worked great on my 1950 Model B.

Good Luck.

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