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Filings in the hydraulic oil on a WD type tractor doesn't necessarily mean the pump has shelled. The hydraulic oil is also used to lube the side PTO. Having changed the oil, how do the hydraulics perform? To answer you other questions, I've found the easiest way to remove the pump (for me anyway) is to disconnect the remote steel line from the hold position valve assembly and then remove that valve assembly from the top of the pump body after removing the large and small linkages, setting the hold valve into the hold detent and draining the oil from both the reservoir *and* the pump itself (easily overlooked). Normally there is enough slack in the rubber lines to move the valve assembly out of the way without disconnecting them. Now you can get to the two top nuts that secure the pump to the housing. Remove them and two bolts (about mid-way down the body of the pump) and the last nut on the bottom. (You may want to remove the rear PTO activation linkage before preceding.) Its tight between the housing and the frame but pull the pump straight away from the housing to clear the studs and then straight up until the pump cam followers touch the top of the housing opening. You'll have to compress the cam followers a bit to work the pump higher, rocking it side to side, front to back. Once the followers clear, roll the pump so that the oil pickup tube clears the opening and you're home free. To reinstall reverse the steps. Its a good idea to scrape/wash as much dirt and oily mud away from the pump area as you can before starting. The only thing inside the housing is the transmission shaft which is cammed to drive the pump. Parts to rebuild the pump can either be found at a good hydraulics shop or fabricated at a machine shop. Don't spend more than about $200 as remanufactured pumps can be had for about $275 from many on-line sources. Good luck! David
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