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WD45 front hydraulic seal leak

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David Thomas (M

02-02-2001 07:16:50

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I bought this '55 WD45 last year and have been having lots of fun tweaking it back into usable shape. :-)

The last major item on my to-do list is a leaking seal on the front of the hydraulic reservoir. It leaks into the engine clutch area so badly that some previous owner had removed (and tossed) the access plate from the bottom of the clutch housing to prevent the oil from pooling around the clutch. The leak is beyond kitty litter so when the tractor is in the garage I generally park it over a bucket and extend the rams to maximum before shutting the engine down. It leaks out about a quart during normal daily usage.

Obviously I have to pull the engine to get to the bad seal. The questions I have are; How big a job will that be? Will I have to remove the wide front axle to get enough clearance to pull the engine forward? Can I just pull the engine forward on the frame or will I need to jack it completely out of the tractor? What other PM issues should I consider while the engine is out (I'm already thinking clutch and pressure plate, throw-out bearing, rear and front main seals)? My manuals aren't very helpful here so any pointers would be useful.

David

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Richard (KS)

02-02-2001 07:53:40

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Re: WD45 front hydraulic seal leak in reply to David Thomas (MO), 02-02-2001 07:16:50

As far as pulling the engine goes, it should be pretty easy. I have a WD narrow front that needed a starter ring gear, so we did the clutch thing while we were in there. Me and a buddy had the whole thing done in about six hours which included some chasing around and some beer drinking. Remove the hood and radiator and cowling, then drive the roll pin from one side of the steering shaft u-joint and slide the shaft and steering wheel to the rear. Then take the cotter key out of the crank handle shaft and slide it forward away from the crankshaft pulley. Disconnect all of the fuel, governor, and electrical connections necessary to remove the engine. Hook a lifting chain to the engine, we used the rocker shaft studs as it says in the service manual. We used a heavy, homebuilt A-frame swingset and a come-along then just rolled the tractor back when the engine cleared the steering pedestal. Other than this the disassembly procedure is fairly self-evident. Haven't done the hydraulic seal like you need to, but there's a fair bit of room in there to work once the engine is out of the way. BTW got all of my clutch parts from Central Tractor, if I remember right the whole thing was about $200. Good luck, these tractors are easy to work on.

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