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Rebuilt and smoking Allis B

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Dave

07-08-2000 20:28:58




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Hi,I have just finished rebuilding a seized up Allis B. I had the head professionally done over,new valves,springs guides the works.I ridge reamed the cylinders and honed them. Pistons looked good.
I put new rings in engine. Ring end gap was just within tolerance. Compression is 85-90 in all cylinders on a cold engine. Engine smokes. It doesn't smell like burnt oil, antifreeze,or unburned gas.Smoke appears blueish. I put some marvel mystery oil in the engine to flush it out. This fouled spark plugs. I have since changed the oil and run the tractor for an hour or so.It still smokes. Engine seems strong inspite of smoking and sparkplug skipping. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,Dave
PS.It has a Zenith carb I only see an idle mixture adjustment(which doesn't change engine running when adjusted) and a throttle stop adjustment.
Is there a main jet adjustment on that carb????
Thanks,Dave

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Butch(OH)

07-10-2000 10:59:14




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 Re: Rebuilt and smoking Allis B in reply to Dave, 07-08-2000 20:28:58  
Other posts are right on, but also pull the air hose off the the back of the carb and check for oil from the air cleaner. Happened to me once after I had rebuilt a Farmall. I didn't find the problem untill I serviced the air cleaner and found the cup was about empty and it started smoking again after I filled it up. A new engine will draw a lot more air than when it is worn out and not many people wash the oil bath out as they should, the whole filter that is, not just the cup.

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Tyler(WA)

07-09-2000 22:53:37




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 Re: Rebuilt and smoking Allis B in reply to Dave, 07-08-2000 20:28:58  
I agree with Dick. Often, new engines smoke as the rings "polish in" and make a better seal. In time, the rings will seat better and stop the oil from creeping past. You're in the break-in period. You can expect to be replacing some plugs.

Old days called for non-detergent oil for the break-in period. Perhaps non-detergent oil didn't foul the plugs as bad? Don't know. Either way, I wouldn't worry too much over the smoke. It should slow up and stop in time.

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Dick L

07-08-2000 21:01:49




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 Re: Rebuilt and smoking Allis B in reply to Dave, 07-08-2000 20:28:58  

I would not worry about the smoking for now. You say that the ring end gap was within to tolerance. What thickness of the feeler gage could you get into the gap after you placed the rings into the cylinder 1 1/2" down, squared with a piston?

The idle screw is for adjusting the fuel/air mixture at idle. It is not for adjusting above idle and will have no effect at the higher engine speeds. Turning the screw in shuts off air and makes the mixture rich, screwing the screw out will make a lean mixture.

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Dave

07-08-2000 22:32:06




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 Re: Re: Rebuilt and smoking Allis B in reply to Dick L, 07-08-2000 21:01:49  
Thanks Dick, Ring end gap was filed so that it had a final gap of .009 +or- per cylinder.
Original dimensions; Cyl. bore Piston Ridge #1 .382 .373 .002-.004 all #2 .382 .371-.378 cylinders
#3 .381 .371-.374
#4 .380 .373
Ridge was removed and cylinders were honed before fitting rings. Thanks for your input,it is appreciated. Dave

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Dick L

07-10-2000 06:23:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Rebuilt and smoking Allis B in reply to Dave, 07-08-2000 22:32:06  
If it was 3.382 and 3.373 at the same depth, I could forsee a problem. I don't understand the readings below .375. (3 3/8 is 3.375) If it is that much out of round you might not get it to stop smoking. If the readings are at different depths and you have that much taper it might stop smoking for a while but won't last long. Using 3 7/16 rings and fileing them will work very well in a round streight hole up into the .380's if the piston is not out of round. It will have compression and run fine but it will not give you the performance that a tight engine will. My information is correct but I might have miss read what you mean.

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Brian

07-10-2000 13:42:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Rebuilt and smoking Allis B in reply to Dick L, 07-10-2000 06:23:48  
Do you know any body with a pto dyno, or something that will load the engine up to near maximum ? Putting a load on the engine to break it in will shorten the time required to seat the rings to the cylinders and make it less likely that you'll glaze the cylinders before the rings have a chance to seat. If that happens it will always burn some oil. Hope this helps, Brian.



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