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Discussion Forum
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B or C block

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Joe

11-17-1998 17:45:53




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A friend at work is in need of a block for a C. The one he has is cracked between the cylinder bores. He said a B block would also work. Anyone know of one near west central IN or east central ILL?? Thanks
joe




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Roy

11-17-1998 18:10:12




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 Re: B or C block in reply to Joe, 11-17-1998 17:45:53  
: A friend at work is in need of a block for a C. The one he has is cracked between the cylinder bores. He said a B block would also work. Anyone know of one near west central IN or east central ILL?? Thanks
: joe

: If the cracks are just between the liners and the block deck is still flat,(if not have machined) and a quality head gasket is used, the cracks should not pose a problem.



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Joe

11-18-1998 16:22:50




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 Re: Re: B or C block in reply to Roy, 11-17-1998 18:10:12  
He claims that when he tried to re-install the sleeves the crack opened wider. I suggested trying to drill through the block between the sleeves and below the deck and using as big a bolt as possible to draw the sides of the block together, as I have been told that htis has been done in the past to oliver 70 blocks with the same problem. He said he would rather try to find another block.

: : A friend at work is in need of a block for a C. The one he has is cracked between the cylinder bores. He said a B block would also work. Anyone know of one near west central IN or east central ILL?? Thanks
: : joe

: : If the cracks are just between the liners and the block deck is still flat,(if not have machined) and a quality head gasket is used, the cracks should not pose a problem.

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Chris

11-19-1998 05:17:09




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 Re: Re: Re: B or C block in reply to Joe, 11-18-1998 16:22:50  
I too have seen the bolt method work but this particular block is easy to find.

He should try to find the CE block, the BE block has a few minor casting differences which in some cases will be a problem (e.g. missing the generator mounts on early versions) and is pretty rare anyway. The CE blocks are very common since the B, C, CA, and IB all used these for the majority of the production run. They can be had for nearly nothing at salvage and metal scrap yards sometimes even from stationary applications (all crops, balers, choppers) that can work fine. I have seen these as cheap as 50 bucks. They will have the "CE" designation on the right rear flange. I know of many in yards here but the shipping would cost far more than the block itself, there must be some locally where you are.

Some of the stationary versions have a casting punchout for a cam driven fuel pump. This pump is hard to find but the hole can be blocked creating a cover and gasket. The fuel pump is unnessesary and undesirable if the engine is used on a tractor.

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