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WD brakes

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Jim

04-17-2000 20:06:55




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I have changed the right side brakes. I now have pulled the lip off the anchor pin for the brakes on the left side. I have heated it, hammered it, pulled on it to the point where I pulled the lip off. Any suggestions!!!




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Dave Kolby

04-18-2000 15:33:11




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 Re: WD brakes in reply to Jim, 04-17-2000 20:06:55  
Just a comment for all those faced with this situation. Someone who owned my WD prior to me had reinstalled these brake pins after coating them with a heavy grease, it was a sticky grease, perhaps wheel bearing? When I had to replace my brake shoes recently I was all prepared to heat, drill, pound and pull! To my great delight the pins came out with pulling with my fingers!

Point made is when you reinstall them, try greasing them! I think perhaps a high temp grease may be best to minimize melting from heat.

just an idea

dave

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Brian G.

04-19-2000 06:17:10




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 Re: Re: WD brakes in reply to Dave Kolby, 04-18-2000 15:33:11  
When we put my brother's pins back in, we cleaned them and the holes of all rust and coated the pins with "Never-Sieze". I doubt we'll ever have them apart again, but someone in the future will be as greatful as Dave is.



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Gordon

04-17-2000 22:30:26




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 Re: WD brakes in reply to Jim, 04-17-2000 20:06:55  
Drill and tap it 3/8 NC install a 3/8 high strength "STUD" in it, apply penetrating oil to the inside areas of the brake pivot pin, and pull it with a nut on the stud and a short piece of pipe and a couple of heavy washers. If it sticks part way out, clean the exposed portion of the pin and apply more "oil", drive it part way back in and try again. If that does not work - go to a 7/16 NC drill and tap with a 7/16 high strenght stud etc. Good luck, Gordon

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Brian G.

04-18-2000 07:27:05




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 Re: Re: WD brakes in reply to Gordon, 04-17-2000 22:30:26  
My brother had this problem with his WD. We did what Gordon says. We first used a grade 5 bolt with the head cut off. The G-5 was not strong enuf, so we went to a Grade 8 bolt and a grade 8 nut. We used a real heavy washer and a thrust bearing from a king pin. It then came only after application of much heat to the housing with an acetylene torch. I've heard tell of going up thru the hole in the bottom of the housing, cutting off the pin from the inside and driving the outer half out. I don't know what you then do with the remaining inner piece of pin which is left in a "blind" hole. Maybe that half doesn't rust so badly and can be twisted out with Vice-grips? As frustrating as this type of thing is, there's a certain amount of satisfaction that one gets from the challenge and the final "victory".

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Leon

05-24-2000 19:44:04




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 Re: Re: Re: WD brakes in reply to Brian G., 04-18-2000 07:27:05  
Jim, Brian and Gordon have very good ideas that work sometimes too but I had one on my WD45 that would NOT even budge with heat and even drilling and tapping and trying to move it with a heavy grade bolt and washers and a spacer as described earlier. I tried everything so I called the local Allis dealer and they said they either torch a chunk of it out from the bottom hole or sawzall about a two inch piece out then drive the outer piece IN (big hammer and punch) and it will fall out of the hole. The remaining piece inside can be easily removed with a pliers as that is not the piece that is stuck in place. I was VERY VERY skeptical about doing this but it worked just like he said it would. Sorry this is so long, but I hope I could be of help. Use never sieze on the replacement bolt. Leon in Mn.

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