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WC engine assembly

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Mark

04-02-2000 19:07:58




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Hi, I am rebuilding a WC engine and I have a I&T
shop manual. Are there any problem areas or special things I should check for that may not
be listed in the I&T manual??? Thanks for any
help you may have to offer!!

Mark




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Gordon Chance

04-04-2000 16:48:29




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 Re: WC engine assembly in reply to Mark, 04-02-2000 19:07:58  
Mark:

Gordon gave you excellent advice on rebuilding the engine. There is however, one other detail on this engine that you need to understand. When you install the piston to the rod, do not clamp the rod to the piston pin in the center of the pin. If you do, then when you install the piston into the block the pin will stick out of the piston on one side and wear a groove in the cylinder wall. The procedure that you use to clamp the rod to the pin should be in the service manual. If it isn't, then E-mail me and I will give you the procedure that you should use. Have a good day.

Gordon

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Gordon

04-04-2000 01:33:58




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 Re: WC engine assembly in reply to Mark, 04-02-2000 19:07:58  
I suggest that you make sure that the cam bearings, the rod bearings, and the main bearings are all at minimum clearances, especially the cam bearings. Clean and polish if necessary the oil drain back hole/slot in the rear main bearing cap. Make sure you understand how to set up the rod and main bearings with the shim packs (its in the book). be sure to install the rear main oil seal correctly (its hard to fix later). Clean out the oil holes in the block at the front, center, and rear main bearing locations and clean the oil hole through the center of the camshaft (IT IS THE MAIN OIL GALLERY IN THIS ENGINE). Make sure that there is no obstruction of the oil holes in the block at the cam bearing locations. Clean out the two oil holes in the front and rear journals of the camshaft. Enlarge the original two holes or drill two additional oil holes of the same size as the originals, 90 degrees from the originals, in the center journal of the camshaft (and clean bore of camshaft of all drill shavings and residue). Be sure to adjust the camshaft end play adjustment in the timing cover as detailed in the manual. Make sure that you have the oil passage ways and oil lines to the rocker arm assembly clean and that oil is getting to the rocker arm assembly. Make sure your oil pump is perfect (not only new or rebuilt or checked out - but perfect) even check the flow rate if possible. You might be better off using a high capacity oil pump for a WD 45. Again the oil pump must be "RIGHT". Be sure to install the oil delivery tube from the oil pump to the engine center main oil gallery and tighten the tubing nuts properly. Set your oil pressure to between 18 and 20 PSI cold, never over 20 PSI COLD. Oil pressure should not drop below 10 PSI hot and idling if you have everything right AND follow the above suggestions. It is easy to set the pressure too high for a cold engine (its hard on the pump and drive gears) and does no good at all if the pressure drops when the engine is hot. Take extra time to do it right the first time, it is quicker and cheaper in the long run. If the engine is set up as suggested, I think it will be better than it was when new. With modern oils and reasonable care it should last a LONG time. I like to use good motor oil, not expensive, but good "SAE/API rated" motor oil. Before you start the engine, hand crank it with the spark plugs out until you get oil pressure and then keep hand cranking for at least two minutes. Then put the spark plugs in and start it. In cold weather I like to use 5W-30 or 5W-40 Synthetic motor oil such as "Mobile 1", the engines spin and start just like in the summer. Good luck have fun, Gordon

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Mark

04-04-2000 15:04:58




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 Re: Re: WC engine assembly in reply to Gordon, 04-04-2000 01:33:58  
Thank you Gordon!!

Mark



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