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WC hard starting and backfire

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D13

03-04-2000 20:39:02




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Swapped my C with burnt valves for a 1940 WC. Poor repaint, bobbed fenders, etc., but has mechanical lift, PTO, and I picked up a belt pulley for $25. Electric start (6V) and mag. Used ether to start (it was 15 degrees out) but drove it home. Parked it at my dads, in the barn. Two months later, it will not start. When cranking, the tractor backfires thru the carb but no smoke from the exhaust. Every once in a while it will puff out the pipe, but more often thru the carb. After 30 seconds or so of cranking lots of gas starts dripping from the carb drain. I rebuilt the carb, taking out a lot of rust, replaced the fuel inlet needle and seat, replaced the sunken float, set float to 1 5/16". Replaced the jury rigged fuel line with a new sediment bowl and line, removing rust on the way. I did not mess with the mag since it was running well. Does the same thin although the fuel drip is somewhat less, and less puffing from the pipe. No fuel in the oil, no block cracks, etc. Any suggestions? Is it so tired I need to pull start it? It does not roll over at the speed I'm used to on my B or C. Or, anyone want to buy it ($750, spare mag and PTO shaft thrown in, 45 minutes from Port Huron Michigan, will deliver 1/2 hour away for free)or swap for a running B. FYI, I also have a B that I'm "hot rodding" - all stainless fasteners, braided hose, etc. I have a 5' Woods belly mower, cultivator set, and plow for it. The trans says 39 but I have distributor, belt/PTO/hydraulics, and foot brakes. My assumption is someone swapped in an early trans. It wasn't decent enough to restore so what the heck. I also own a B with a 5' snow blade using a power steering pump and what I believe are IH valves.

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D-17 dave

03-04-2000 20:57:03




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 Re: WC hard starting and backfire in reply to D13, 03-04-2000 20:39:02  
Do a compretion test. Sounds like a stuck intake valve. If even one is stuck, it will disrupt the flow through the carb and not let the rest of the cyl. get fuel to fire. The comp. test will tell you whitch one(s) to look at. Or just pull the vale cover and look for a badly gapped rocker arm. That will also show you whitch ones stuck.Some good lubricant and gentle pecking with a brass hammer should loosen it up sence it ran not to long ago. Don't forget to check for bent pushrods on the stuck valves while your in there.

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D13

03-10-2000 13:49:48




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 Re: Re: WC hard starting and backfire in reply to D-17 dave, 03-04-2000 20:57:03  
No bent pushrods, valves all move free, spring heights are within 1/32nd of each other. Haven't put the compression gage on her, but suspicious that a leakdown test will find a poor intake valve seating problem. Also, the beast cranks slowly - is it possible that I'm not spinning it fast enough? Or that the mag is a little too advanced? Everyon says these things will run even after being thrashed, but this one is determined to prove otherwise.

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