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SAY IT ISN'T SO!!!

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Dave

02-07-2000 13:29:32




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I have poor compression across all 4 cylinders on my CA. approx 50lb down to 15lb. What's my prognosis doctors?? Ring kit, sleeve kit, valves ground?? I assume pulling the head is the next step. Should I part it out or fix it. I don't want it that bad for use, I just wanted to fix it up and sell it. It's very original. Tell me your wisdom oh great AC board




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Kemper

02-23-2000 17:33:20




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 Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dave, 02-07-2000 13:29:32  
You have received alot of good advice on your ca I wouldn't do anything until you get the carb, and get it started, run it a while then you can check compression again, because right now it will be low due to setting for so long. good luck.



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Jerry M.

02-10-2000 11:50:31




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 Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dave, 02-07-2000 13:29:32  
What am I missing here? I read all the follow up diagnosis recommendations. It seems like these guys are going overboard with their diagnosis. For an engine that was in good shape and then sat for 10 years, I would not expect much useful information with a compression test. The fact that you have some compression in all cylinders is a good indication. Apparently all the valves are working. Get your carburator installed and start it up. It might be fine. You might want to put new oil in the crankcase first. A little oil squirted in each spark plug hole might help it start easier and prevent some wear on the cylinder walls. Check the points and make sure they are not glazed.

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Ernie D

02-10-2000 17:12:09




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 Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Jerry M., 02-10-2000 11:50:31  
Good advice here. Probably light rust on valves and seats. Either it will be ok or it wont. Give it some light exercise and see how it all turns out.



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Tony H. (TN)

02-07-2000 20:27:23




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 Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dave, 02-07-2000 13:29:32  
Put some transmission fluid in the cyls and let it set till you get the carb. then pull it off with another tractor. get the RPMs up on the engine and I bet it will start. Tony



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Phil Auten

02-07-2000 15:33:46




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 Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dave, 02-07-2000 13:29:32  
Dave,
Does it run well without smoking? If so, throw away your compression gague (or at least try another one). I'd bet it's fine if it runs well.

Phil



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Dave

02-07-2000 17:17:35




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 Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Phil Auten, 02-07-2000 15:33:46  
I don't know if it runs well, I can't get it started. It's missing a carb. Until that get's here, I don't know if it will run. I just bought the compression tester today at my local auto parts store. I would be elated if the guage was wrong, but I doubt it. It sat for 10 years inside and ran well when parked. I can pull the head in about 5 minutes, but what do I look for. Scored cylinders? What does a burnt valve look like? It could be a rust issue from setting. valves won't close cylinder walls might have rust, who knows. I certainly won't until I pull the head. I'm just wondering if it's worth my time.

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Dick L

02-07-2000 13:54:52




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 Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dave, 02-07-2000 13:29:32  
Your correct, the next step would be to remove the head. If the valves are bad you might get by with a valve job to sell it. If you want me to buy it from you, lets see, 3 7/16" sleeves and pistons, all new bearings and seals, all new valves and valve springs, rebuilt carb. you get the idea and I only want to give you 1200.00. Least thats what I get after putting a bunch of money into a tractor. The truth is that you won't know what you need to do untill you get it opened up.

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$1200.00 is fair

02-07-2000 14:34:05




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 Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dick L, 02-07-2000 13:54:52  
I could get more for all the parts, but $1200 as is....that's a fair price. Running and in great shape it's worth $3000 tops right?? I just don't want to sell it for $500.00. I know it's worth more than that.



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Gary S

02-07-2000 14:08:47




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 Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dick L, 02-07-2000 13:54:52  
Before you take anything apart - you should run some tests.Do a compression test on each cylinder with all spark plugs removed. Then squirt about an ounce of oil in each cylinder and do the compression test again.This will help determine if you are lossing compression past the rings , or past the valves. Gary



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Dave

02-07-2000 14:53:43




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 Re: Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Gary S, 02-07-2000 14:08:47  
Gary:

I thought the cylinder might be dry, so I squirted some oil in them already. How long do I have to wait to test them again? To see if the leak is in the valves or in the rings. The tractor sat for 5 years and had recent rebuild before that. "so I'm told"



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Gary S

02-07-2000 17:12:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Dave, 02-07-2000 14:53:43  
Test right after squirting the oil in the cylinders.If the tractor sat for 5 years , the rings may be seized in the ring grooves. In that case , I have heard that a 50 / 50 mixture of diesel fuel and Automatic Trans. Fluid is a good soaking / penetrent , letting it soak for a few days. I would also put the spark plugs back in after adding the mixture , then cranking the engine over a few times so that yhe compression forces the oil down around the rings.
Patience will be a vertue !
Gary

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DAve

02-07-2000 17:21:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Gary S, 02-07-2000 17:12:32  
That's my problem. I have NO patients. Actually, that's probably the worlds problem. We all move way too fast. If we could just set back the clock about 40 years, we'd be all set. I just have the time to "tinker" with these things. I'll do my best to let time be on my side. I'll wait and check it tomorrow.



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David Hutchins

02-07-2000 19:20:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to DAve, 02-07-2000 17:21:17  
If it ran fine when parked, sounds like just stuck valves. Even stuck rings will have enough compresion to crank. and if you get er running let the heat unstick the rings. They are probably stuck a little after sitting that long anyway. My advice, take the valve cover off and check the valves for free movement. Check the valve lash ajustment, if you have exessive slack on any and it is sticking, it probably isn't closeing fully. an easy fix is back off the valve adjustment and take a brass hammer and manually work the valve while sraying the valve steam with a high grade penatrateing fluid. that should loosen up the valves. If your new gauge is like mine with the qicke disconect between the gauge and hose,you can take the tire valve core out and use the hose to connect to an air compressor and do a leak down test on each cylinder. By putting the cylineder you want to check on the bottom of the fireing stroke pressurise that cylineder and listen to hear where the air escapes. some leak by is normal, more than you would think by the rings. But remember you are putting 100PSI on the cylinder where as most of the time it only gets a short time of compresion while running. It is easy and obvious if the air is going by laky valves by listening to the intake and exhaust manifolds. If the air comes out of the adjoining cylinder the problem is a blown head gasket. Any further just holler, good luck. Remember, do your diagnosis before strippng the machine. Usually you can go right to the problem.

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franko

02-07-2000 14:39:09




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 Re: Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to Gary S, 02-07-2000 14:08:47  
Be sure your compression testing equipment is reliable! I got hold of a bad gauge and it showed an iminent overhaul. Rechecking with different equipment yeilded good results.



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John C-IL

02-07-2000 17:55:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! in reply to franko, 02-07-2000 14:39:09  
Gotta nuther idea no one has mentioned, Rig up a way to chuck your air compressor up to each cylinder individually. Check the intake and exhaust manifolds for air leaking (do it at TDC so the valves are closed) and also check the pan or dipstick maybe even the valve cover vent for air escaping. It works on car and truck engines, why not the old tractor.
John



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