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Model CA Brake Bands

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Rick

01-19-2000 19:07:49




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The brakes on my CA aren't too good. They are also out of adjustment. I have plenty of pedal, but it takes more weight than I have to stop it!

I have 2 questions, the first is, can I change brake bands with removing the entire axle assembly?

Next question, are the drums built heavy enough to smooth out on a lathe? They do have some scoring that I can see from the adj. slot.

Thanks in advance,
Rick

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RMD

01-19-2000 19:35:14




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 Re: Model CA Brake Bands in reply to Rick, 01-19-2000 19:07:49  
You don't need to remove the final drive to change the bands, but you do need to pull the platform, fenders and lift arms off. Fishing the bands around the drum is tricky, but it can be done. We had a bad experience with turning the drums on a CA - never had good braking after that. Just couldn't get enough friction with the mechanical external shoe design after the drums were turned. I suggest leave them alone.

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tdelewese

01-20-2000 07:28:48




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 Re: Re: Model CA Brake Bands in reply to RMD, 01-19-2000 19:35:14  
You can fish the bands around by using a soft metal coat hanger or #12 elect. wire!! I agree leave the drums alone.



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t delewese

01-21-2000 07:41:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Model CA Brake Bands in reply to tdelewese, 01-20-2000 07:28:48  
I just last night replaced both brake bands. Just push from front and use a screw driver to tap hinge edge down, you may have to reach through the bottom dirt port and help it along. Make sure you clean the area around the break drum as best you can. use my other suggestion (wire) it may help.



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Jay

02-02-2000 20:21:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Model CA Brake Bands in reply to t delewese, 01-21-2000 07:41:02  
Rick, I had the same problem with the breaks on my CA. It is possible to replace the bands without removal of the final drives as said. However, chances are the slipping is caused by oil soaked break bands, as was the case on my machine. These old girls had leather seals which tend to shrink in time, resulting in some pretty hefty leaks. I did a complete tear down and rebuild on mine. I have the capability to metal spray the drums and shaft seal surfaces, if you'er interested I can rebuild yours. Typically the seal surfaces on the drive axles need repair also, if the surface is bad it will wipe out the new seal in a hurry. I sprayed mine up with a SS metalic and reground the shafts. I typically charge around $50 for a seal surface restoration. The diameter of the drums is some what critical. The right hand side drum is available from a re-man (don't go to AGCO, they'll take you to the cleaners) for around $100. The hand clutch one is no longer available, scrappers tend to cost around $200 and come with the same grooves you have. All the seals are available (National), I can dig up the numbers if you need them, CT tractor sells them in their catalog. The replacement seals are neoprene instead of leather, they are around $5 - $10 a piece. If you are elbow deep in a tear down, like I was, send the hand clutch out to a rebuilder, they will slip as the get hard and brittle, I found a rebuilder who charged me only $50, the re-man part is arround $90. When I did mine, I replaced all the hydralic seals tore down the pump and built it back up with new seals, painted her all up and built a 3 point hitch to boot. It took 3 months working nights. It blocked the driveway and my wife from putting her car in the garage. It took another 3 months to make up to her! Good luck

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